Identità Golose... in blue

Five great chefs interpreted the sea at the congress: Sabatelli, Lo Coco, Casagrande, Cedroni and Terrinoni

by Andrea Cuomo
A dish from Angelo Sabatelli, one of the speakers

A dish from Angelo Sabatelli, one of the speakers at Identità di Mare. Andrea Cuomo is the author of this piece


Five seaside postcards. The first was the one with Angelo Sabatelli [in the photo with the author of the article, Andrea Cuomo] of the homonymous restaurant which, after leaving Monopoli, he’s about to open again in Putignano
Sabatelli draws from his experience in the Far East (Jacarta, Hong Kong, Shanghai) and starts updating the programme with two quotes from Apulia and the east: Squid with almonds and lemon (in the photo), Broad beans and chicory with warm oyster and dry tuna and Prawn from Santo Spirito, dry scallops and toasted almonds. Ahoy!
Two chefs tried to make fish “meatier” without betraying it. By translating it at most.  The first was Tony Lo Coco, a debut on the stage of Identità
The Sicilian chef from I Pupi in Bagheria (Palermo), self-trained, interprets two traditional dishes from Palermo: baked anelletti, which he puts in line like soldiers, forming some small cannoli on a rectangular base of tuna sauce; and stigghiola, a Sicilian street food skewer, in which he uses red tuna instead of the lamb

The sea unites and separates, nourishes and threatens. The sea is a huge liquid motorway on which ingredients have travelled for centuries, from one continent to the other, sometimes changing the food geography of the place where they landed (think of tomatoes, coffee, cocoa). Hence the sea, as a material and intellectual experience, had to have a specific section within Identità Golose in Milan, the 2017 edition being dedicated to travel. Throughout the afternoon of Monday 6th March, Italian chefs who interpret seafood in their personal way, tracing sometimes mental, sometimes visionary itineraries, spoke in turn.

Tradition, provocation, imagination. Poor and rich ingredients, with a theme appearing multiple times throughout the afternoon: the need to anchor fish, a very rich and complex raw material, to the ground, with the idea of ruining the freshness and delicateness as little as possible. But fine dining elaborates, sublimates, colours. It escapes the idea of simple stylizations, or it keeps the ingredients recognisable.
(All the lessons in the photo gallery by Brambilla-Serranitranslated into English by Slawka G. Scarso)