Rene Redzepi and part of his team of Noma in Copenhagen, proclaimed in Antwerp (Belgium), best restaurant in the world by the World's 50 Best 2021 (photo instagram)
Noma is once again at the top of the 50Best. It's the fifth time ever, but the first for the new location on the edge of Christianshavn, after the glories of Strandgade, the old salt warehouse that was already at number one in 2010-2012 and in 2014. Not a late acknowledgement, as in the case of the 3 Michelin stars but, if anything, a seal of approval for the most influential restaurant of the decade, a sceptre inherited from Ferran and Albert Adrià's el Bulli, which closed exactly 10 years ago (and was also awarded by the 50Best in 2002 and 2006-2009).
There's no doubt that the establishment in Copenhagen is somewhat the heir of the Catalan one, and of the revolution that the latter created on the turn of the millennium. After his fundamental experience in Cala Monjoi, René Redzepi returned with two ideas that are still crucial in his restaurant format. The first is that of a lab as the necessary waiting room before entering the restaurant: the Test Kitchen is to Noma what Taller was for el Bulli, a place of work and discussion where the frontiers of technique and raw materials are moved forward. A think tank in which to discuss the physical, chemical and biological nature of food and taste, giving gastronomy a scientific dignity that was unknown for centuries.
Rene Redzepi on the stage of Identità London, in 2009. The year before he had been nominated International Chef of the Year for the Guida di Identità Golose
Mould Sandwiches served at Noma before the pandemic: "Fermentations", Redzepi told us, "are the cuisine of the future "
A small part of the Italian cooks who have passed through Noma: left to right, Luca Armellino, Jessica Natali, Edoardo Fiaschi, Riccardo Canella, Stefano Ferraro
Translated into English by Slawka G. Scarso
Reviews, recommendations and trends from the four corners of the planet, signed by all the authors of Identità Golose
born in Milan, 1973, freelance journalist, coordinator of Identità Golose World restaurant guidebook since 2007, he is a contributor for several magazines and teaches History of gastronomy and Culinary global trends into universities and institutes.
Mette Søberg, from Copenhagen, 32, at Noma since 2013. Three years later she took over the test kitchen, the creative lab of the restaurant with 3 Michelin stars and 5 awards for best restaurant in the world
Scoby steak, the kombucha starter, one of the steps in the summer-vegetarian menu at Noma in Copenhagen, Denmark. The establishment, opened in 2003 in the old location in Strandgade 93, has 3 Michelin stars and was the World’s Best in 2010, 2011, 2012, 2014 and 2021
René Redzepi, in the middle, with part of the staff at Noma