Lima mon amour (part II)

see part one

The Queirolo family is the opposite of Javier. Or perhaps it represents its hidden ally. They arrived in Lima a hundred years ago, and they planted a vineyard here, to make pisco, and then founded a winery and finally a tavern. Those who cross their door know that they could live and die with no impediment. Time stops here. There’s only life in here - and in the flux of cocktails made with pisco, of sausages, stuffed potatoes, guests and neighbours from Pueblo Libre, the neighbourhood of independence.

Lima is shy, even if at first glance you wouldn’t think so, with its crazy cars, its stormy population, its endless flavours. Nonetheless, the shyness is all there. With its grey sky, the fog falling down and the sun appearing from time to time, Lima hides its shyness between the people who appear and disappear without any notice. Only when the sea comes forth, when the kitchen garden sings. It is then that the family of Mi Perù (avenida Lima 861, Barranco, +51.(0)1.4082431), appears to offer their crab in the heart of Barranco. Or Sonia al Chorrillos, with her memorable sea bream with garlic.

When he’s in a good mood, Manolo alla Punta (Malecón Pardo, +51.(0)1.453-5886, La Punta) offers succulent cebiche made with fish roe and mango. And when the sun rises there’s still some old fox at Gloton’s who never rests. And should we get lost in the historic centre, we can have a meat sandwich at El Chinito (Chancay 894, Chancay, +51.(0)1.4232197), while if we want something from the Chinese neighbourhood, we can have a chi jau cuy from the classic San Joy Lao (Jr. Ucayali 779, San Isidro, +51.(0)1.4267799). Should we fancy something Japanese, let’s sit by Micha’s counter at Maido, and enjoy of the profound pleasure of Peruvian style nigiri.

If on the other hand we want to sink in pisco, Huaringas always waits for us with a glass ready to be filled. Those who want to travel across town, can find the cuisine of the Ands at Tarwi (pasaje Ayulo 131, Jesús María, +51.(0)1.4232389), that of the North at Fiesta and Huanchaco, the food of the South at Rinconcito Arequipeño and the tasty Amazon cuisine at Pedro Miguel Schiaffino’s Amaz (avenida La Paz 1079, Miraflores).

Travels, feelings, sentiments, illusions. This is my Lima, the one of the past, the present and the future. A Lima full of flavours and treasures. A Lima to be lived completely.