11-11-2013

Loosing a star

The Michelin Guide’s downgrading in the words of someone who experienced it. An opportunity of redemption

Barbara Pisano and Luca Collami, respectively the

Barbara Pisano and Luca Collami, respectively the faces in the dining room and in the kitchen of restaurant Baldin in Setri Ponente, Genoa, tel. +39.010.6531400. The establishment received a Michelin star in 2009 and lost it in the 2014 edition, presented a few days ago in Milan (photo by altissimoceto.it)

Our restaurant is located in the outskirts of Genoa, in Sestri Ponente, a historic and working class village. Making people understand our work here has always been difficult. However, we've always believed in what we do and our town, for good and for worse has always rewarded us. The first true emotion arrived when we entered the Jre. For us, being part of this family, cemented with "talent and passion" is essential. Thanks to this group we have had the possibility to grow, to evolve and become what we are today.

Barbara Pisano with Heinz Beck

Barbara Pisano with Heinz Beck

In 2009 the Red Guide unexpectedly awarded us with a Michelin star. We only learnt about it by watching the presentation online. I remember the emotion as if it were today. It was so strong, it struck us from the mouth to the stomach. We remained incredulous, literally in tears. Lots of celebrations followed: champagne with friends, clients, colleagues and suppliers who still support us today. Thanks to the star we felt even more proud of our work, proud to bring this reward to our humble city.

Since then, we have tried every single day to improve, to do our best. We invested money, time, passion and sacrifice to fight this scary economic crisis of which, unfortunately, Genoa, seems to be affected more than any other city. Even now I can do nothing but thank Jre, Michelin, my city, our friends, clients, supporters, and of course the other guides, because they have allowed us to reach certain goals and lots of satisfaction.

On November the 5th, just like in 2009, we discover online that we had lost the star. The same strong emotion, the same cramps in the stomach. Except this time we feel the world is collapsing over us. Eyes swollen with tears, a catch in the throat - we're left speechless. Empty. Meanwhile, the telephone keeps ringing: it's the same friends, clients and colleagues who call us to support us, to justify us, to understand. Every time we reply with a weak voice and just one word: «grazie». It is only late at night that Luca and I manage to share a few words.

As every morning, the next day I open the restaurant but with less enthusiasm: my head is heavy and full of thoughts. I stop, I look around myself and say to myself: «This is my restaurant, it grew with me, I spend more hours here than I do with my children. I give the best I can. So, for heaven's sake, lets get back to work, with pride!».

Beside Baldin, these are the other restaurants that lost their Michelin star this year: Casa Grugno in Taormina, Trattoria del Fulmine in Trescore Cremasco, La Fiaschetteria in Besenzone, La Cassolette in La Salle and Il Flauto di Pan in Ravello

Beside Baldin, these are the other restaurants that lost their Michelin star this year: Casa Grugno in Taormina, Trattoria del Fulmine in Trescore Cremasco, La Fiaschetteria in Besenzone, La Cassolette in La Salle and Il Flauto di Pan in Ravello

Today, with a clearer mind, I can honestly say that if we have lost the star, the responsibility is only ours. We made a mistake and now we need to fix it: we need to grow, improve, and never to be presumptuous or frivolous. Of course, now our mind is confused when it comes to the future. But one thing's for sure: we will continue to work in the best possible way. Because in the end we will welcome this negative note as an opportunity to grow and change. The star is always there, waiting for us. We will conquer it once again at the right moment.

Every cloud has a silver lining, nothing happens by chance. I always teach this to my children: you need to give yourselves some goals in life, you need to identify them, believe in them and conquer them with love. Of course, they were upset too, because they always loved the idea of having a dad who was also a starred chef. However, my dear children, remember: every obstacle on your way will teach you to become stronger and more creative. So finding some obstacles is the ideal thing. You always need to be thankful and never pessimistic, even when things don't go as you wished.


Chefs' life stories

Men who, for a moment, leave pots and pans to tell us their experience and point of view

by

Barbara Pisano