Rubitt fever

While the heat wave arrived in Milan, a fever for “miniscule precious things” rose until it rocketed to the sky yesterday, on the occasion of the second edition of Identità Rubitt. This word, unearthed by Danilo Ingannamorte between the lines of a text written by the Milanese Scapigliatura movement at the end of the 19th century, now officially describes the new wave of Milanese-style “tapas”.

Is it possible that we’re finally realising that small is good? Is it possible that the wave of Basque pintxos is finally taking root in the Pianura Padana? Judging by the flow of people that yesterday constantly crowded the Dopolavoro Bicocca in Milan, this is very likely. Yesterday, in this location, one could find 7 islands controlled by 7 teams of chefs from Milanese establishments (host Paolo Casanova, Battisti/Delcourt of Ratanà and Erba Brusca, Eugenio Roncoroni and Beniamino Nespor of Al Mercato, Varese/Ciciriello of Alice, Matteo Vigotti of Peck of Giovanni Giberti of Pavè) and almost Milanese locations (Christian and Manuel Costardi of Cinzia in Vercelli and Andrea Besuschio of Pasticceria Besuschio in Abbiategrasso). Each team prepared two rubitt (one each for the two pastry-chefs Besuschio and Giberti). As for us, we had fun assigning a leadership to each micro-dish.

The most deceptive: Costardi’s Grana Padano mousse, with beer reduction and powdered coffee. Seen from above, it looked like a risotto (which in fact it the emblem of the two big brothers).

The biggest mouth-challenge: Nespor and Roncoroni’s Blackened chicken and Pork ears salad. The sweet chilly sauce in the former and the anaesthetising Sichuan pepper in the latter created a blissful and prolonged spiciness.

The “quoters”: Besuschio’s rubitt and Vigotti’s crab, two different club sandwich interpretations, the first built on sweet notes, the second based on the crab delicate tones

The highlanders: Paolo Casanova’s Bread gnocchi. The chef would like to remove them from the menu but there are people coming here just to taste them.

The most Southern: Viviana Varese’s Tomato puree with ricotta and mackerel. If you closed your eyes while tasting it, you were then disappointed when you opened your eyes again and realised you were not on the Amalfi Coast.

The most Piedmontese: Battisti’s Bread, tongue and green sauce, a successful rubitt-style interpretation of the Langhe area.

The most multi-textural: Giovanni Giberti’s rubitt, with bread brittle, chocolate mousse and the ethereal aroma of lime.

Idea, ideas, ideas for this “small is good” theme, came from these young chefs who are never satisfied. And as for productive uneasiness, we close with 3 news: 1. At the end of June, the Al Mercato guys will open the Al Mercato Noodle Bar in Viale Bligny in Milan 2. Vigotti is ready to create a gourmet restaurant on the first floor of Peck 3. Besuschio has recently transformed his pastry-lab in Abbiategrasso into an inn with beautiful rooms. Ideas, ideas, ideas.