21-03-2013
Four chalices of Schiava, a grape variety that gives birth to a more and more appreciated Doc, the production of which is only allowed in the province of Bolzano. "Schiave d’Amore" is the name of the event, which took place a few days ago, and the subject of this article: it has focused on the best examples of the 1999-2007 vintages
“No way… I can’t believe it”, “I had no idea”. See, when a tasting, no matter how original, starts like this, you can already feel satisfied. And if those speaking are the greatest kellermeister in Alto Adige, the satisfaction doubles. In other words, it was a great vertical tasting, that of Schiave d’Amore (evidently quoting Nikita Mikhalkov’s film), organised by a small teams of fanatics with some thirty bottles of wines made with Alto Adige’s Schiava, selected among the 1999/2007 vintages.
There are 3 different varietes: Schiava Grossa, Schiava Gentile and Schiava Grigia
However, it’s a known thing, that nemo propheta in patria and so comes Johannes Pfeifer’s surprise, that of the great vine-dresser from Pfannenstielhof when comparing the 2000 and 2002 vintages of his Santa Maddalena (the first to receive the Tre Bicchieri award from Gambero Rosso in 2009) still capable of giving emotion even after over 10 years in the cellar. These are wines conceived to be drunk within one, maximum two years. Same goes for Stefan Filippi, the magician of Bolzano’s winery, who over the years has transformed the Santa Maddalena Huck into a small icon of this Doc while others now would happily do without this humble and still less profitable Schiava.
Apart from the Santa Maddalena star, some surprises also arrived from the Lago di Caldaro versions, despite appearing to have suffered more from the longer time spent in the bottle. Instead, the Lago di Caldaro DeSilvas Peterleiten 2004 by the Peter Sölva & Söhne winery, was still lively in its colour and finely characterised by the ripe fruity scents on the nose, and void of any tannic roughness. A great surprise was given also by the Leuchtenburg 2003 selection, by the Erste&Neue winery: it was still extraordinarily intact in its fruity bouquet where, despite the very hot vintage, one could still distinguish some beautiful cherry notes.
Roberto Calderan
The logo of the event
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