11-04-2018
Beniamino Bilali with gastronomist and food critic Andrea Grignaffini at the end of an extraordinary tasting at Pummà Milano
Beniamino Bilali has origins rooted in Durres in Albania. Born in 1985, he stood out in San Patrignano’s pizzeria in Coriano, Romagna. Then he established himself in 2010 in the first of the many excellent Berberè pizzerias that Matteo Aloe opened over the years – the one in Castel Maggiore, off Bologna. Today, after various experiences, including Norway, Bilali is the soul of Pummà, four restaurants, three in Italy, Milano Marittima, Bologna and Milan, and one in Ibiza.
The one in Milan, at 7 Via Caminadella, in the Cesare Correnti area, opened in the autumn and is now finding its right, high quality and complete balance. It’s an ambitious project and it’s nice to hear that he’s recently hired Matteo Tambini, founder at O Fiore mio, as his consultant – another nice establishment in Romagna where Bilali gave his contribution in the start-up phase.
Bilali, a master of dough, presents three types: classic (with tender wheat flour type 2), terracolta with an Antonio Cera selection and hydrolysis with broken wheat, the latter two requiring a complicated process. «Today my efforts are all focused on pizza, on raw materials, - said Beniamino - on the capacity of giving each product a specific role. My goal is to work on tradition, free it from approximate rituals and get a better understanding of it. For me, this urgency to understand and protect it is a matter of love, of becoming aware of this marvellous wisdom. This is perhaps the only way to make it modern, without changing it. It’s a difficult road, where everything is questioned, but everything is also real, with greater and greater focus and precision».
A slice of pizza Bufalina: "Terra Amore e Fantasia" San Marzano tomato, Mozzarella di Bufala Campana PDO, fresh basil. Hydrolysis dough and, to finish, the lovely Apulian extra virgin olive oil Intini, fruttato 2017
Bilali instead, as a paradigm of his work, sponsors Bufalina: «It’s the essence of our idea that both the products of the earth and a guaranteed supply chain must be the focus of every gastronomic project. The desire to make the most authentic farmers’ language more contemporary. This is why wheat must be the focus of the pizzaiolo’s thoughts. We joined Antonio Cera’s project and Grani Futuri in the countryside of Foggia, a direct and sincere link between bakers, pizzaioli and farmers who speak, meet and share ideas.
«Finally, extra virgin olive oil. People don’t speak enough about it but we believe it’s an important topic. Pummà collaborates with high quality small producers who have revolutionised the Italian scene thanks to their continuous discoveries.
Season after season, there’s also a tribute to the places where the various Pummà, are shining, each having its exclusive recipe, in Milano Marittima, Bologna and Milan. Right now, in the latter, there’s Una Bontà: sweet and soft Gorgonzola, onion braised in wine and Java pepper.
Fiordilatte gelato from Fiorentini in Faenza and extra virgin olive oil: pure pleasure
Useful info: Pummà Milano, Via Caminadella 7, tel. +39.02.91326066, e-mail milano@pumma.pizza. Prices: Classiche 12.5/14.5 euros; Golose 14/18; Spring 13/15 and Neapolitan 9/15. Service fee 2.5 euros. Always open in the evening, closed at lunchtime on Saturday and Sunday.
Translated into English by Slawka G. Scarso
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born in Milan in March 1955, at Il Giornale for 31 years dividing himself between sports and food, since 2004 he's the creator and curator of Identità Golose. blog www.paolomarchi.it instagram instagram.com/oloapmarchi