30-01-2016
2016 dish by dish (5)
Fifty dishes from as many chefs, defining the heavenly state of Lazio and Campania
Iside De Cesare, La Parolina, Acquapendente (Viterbo)
Cod, garlic, oil and chilli pepper
Gianfranco Pascucci, Pascucci al Porticciolo, Fiumicino (Rome)
Eel tortelli in a broth of miso and caviar. Lake of Burano, WWF oasis: eel, myrtle and lentiscus. We’re collaborating with the WWF oases to give a "taste" to these places (photo by Andrea Di Lorenzo)
Claudio Petrolo, Claudio Petrolo, Gaeta (Latina)
Sea essence. Raw and cooked elements start an explosion with the flavour of the sea
Marco Bottega, Aminta resort, Genazzano (Rome)
Salmon, green apple and Orient spices. A meeting of sour, bitter, sweet and savoury
Rocco de Santis, Il Vistamare del Fogliano hotel, Latina
Red mullet in bread crust. A snack you can also eat with your hands, enclosing the scents of the South (I’m from Salerno): it’s like biting the sea together with onion, garlic, mint, lemon scents, raisins and pine nuts
Daniele Usai, Il Tino, Ostia (Rome)
Gnocchi with mandarin, with cod tripe and spinach. A historic dish from our menu has just returned in a current version
Gino Pesce, Acqua Pazza, Ponza (Latina)
Candele, cheese, pepper, white fish and courgettes. Created for a project we presented at Expo Milano with the goal of enhancing all the POD products of Lazio
Maurizio e Sandro Serva, La Trota, Rivodutri (Rieti)
Crayfish, roots, tubers, watercress with smoked trout and lake whitefish roe. A concentrate of flavours and lightness: roots, tubers and crayfish are steamed with aromatised water, with vegetable peels and Matcha tea. There’s no salt: the sapidity is giveb by the roe, the smokiness of the trout and the minerals in the vegetables and in the watercress, picked from our brook
Andrea Fusco, Giuda Ballerino, Rome
Venison sirloin with its jus and hibiscus, caramelised onions with blueberries and pistachio wafer. Serving a rich and lean red meat that is rarely served in this season
Cristina Bowerman, Glass Hostaria, Rome
Pasta and potatoes. Four different types of potatoes, with 4 different cooking methods, from mashed to crispy. Inspired by Bottura’s Compression of pasta and beans
Anthony Genovese, Il Pagliaccio, Rome
Oyster, beetroot and coffee, snow of burrata. A journey across different scents, temperatures and textures
Francesco Apreda, Imàgo dell'hotel Hassler, Rome
Tandoori duck breast, cocoa earth and dried apricots. My personal take of a great classic from a continent I’m very fond of
Arcangelo Dandini, L'Arcangelo, Rome
My cipollata: zita with onion fondant with three spices. Taken from the Renaissance cipollata of Bartolomeo Scappi, the secret chef of 6 popes, who lived almost 30 years in Rome
Heinz Beck, La Pergola, Rome
S Campo. It’s the interpretation, with a modern take, of minestrone, made with lyophilisation. Each vegetable is cooked in the most suitable way so as to maintain its nutritional characteristics and then lyophilised. The result is 6, 7, 8 powders which are then put in the dish. The dish is served with scampi breaded with potatoes and soaked in front of the guest with a jus of this crustacean (photo by Janez Puksic)
Alba Esteve Ruiz, Marzapane, Rome
Chestnut cappeletti, raisins, smoked herring and seaweed infusion. Contrasts: the soft chestnut filling and a very persistent flavour, the smokiness and the fatness of the eel, the intense sweetness of the raisins, the sapidity of the seaweed infusion, the crispiness of the pasta...
Marco Baccanelli e Francesca Barreca, Mazzo, Rome
Roasted quails, baked tubers and roots, herb butter. The quails are served in their original shape, without deboning them. Our cuisine is moving towards a greater simplicity, and we can do so even by choosing classic yet not simple techniques
Roy Caceres, Metamorfosi, Roma
Mushrooms, flax brittle, black garlic and cream with Monviso blue cheese. In the seeming simplicity of an ingredient like mushrooms, contrasting textures give life to a dish in which their identity is surprisingly enhanced
Davide Del Duca, Osteria Fernanda, Rome
Snails, radish roots, Purgatorio beans, leaves and mustard seeds. A tribute to the material and primordial essence of the “earth” concept
Luciano Monosilio, Pipero al Rex, Rome
Vermicelli creamed in chicken broth, toasted spices and parmesan infusion. This recipe comes from spaghetti creamed in a very normal broth. The spices recall high mountains with the balsamic note counterbalanced by the sweet water of the parmesan. Almost like ramen
Marco Martini, Stazione di Posta, Rome
Steamed raviolo, chicken and broth of roasted potatoes. A meeting of east, west and my mother’s home
Francesco Sposito, Taverna Estia, Brusciano (Naples)
Tortellini with dandelion in a consommé of crustaceans. Introduced only recently, I’m very happy with it because it sums up the course we’ve taken
Vitantonio Lombardo, Locanda Severino, Caggiano (Salerno)
Mela Gras, that is to say mousse of chicken liver with dessert wine in a gelatine of annurca apples on a mixed leaf salad and hazelnuts from Giffoni. Creative and elegant cuisine with local products
Rosanna Marziale, Le Colonne, Caserta
Pasta with tomatoes. Paccheri from Gragnano with three types of tomatoes: San Marzano, piennolo and corbarino made with three different cooking techniques, with buffalo buttermilk
Pasquale Torrente, Al Convento, Cetara (Salerno)
'Ndunderi (ricotta gnocchi). These are pasta’s ancestors. They were born on the Amalfi Coast and are part of a project that this year, at Al Convento, will rediscover ancient local recipes
Christoph Bob, Monastero di Santa Rosa, Conca dei Marini (Salerno)
Linguine with nettle emulsion, salicornia and sea truffles
Giulio Coppola, La Galleria, Gragnano (Naples)
Spaghetti with lemon, with beef muzzle, pesto of olives, lupines and rocket salad. It says a lot about my territory and recalls the O Per e Muss, a street food recipe that people enjoy in the evenings in the South all year round
Pasquale Palamaro, Indaco del Regina Isabella, Ischia (Naples)
Sea foie gras. Cod liver prepared like the French geese one to make foie gras. Paired with cabbage, beetroot, ginger and toasted bread
Alfonso Caputo, La Taverna del Capitano, Massa Lubrense (Naples)
Seabream and prawns, figs and moka with sea urchin needles. The richness of the sea with the addition of an iodine note to enhance the taste through all the senses (in the photo, the summer version with cherry tomatoes from Vesuvius)
Salvatore Bianco, Il Comandante at Romeo hotel, Naples
Squid and bamboo with emulsion of cardamom with citrus fruits, soft potato with soy milk and black olives. It fully represents my cooking philosophy: ingredients from my homeland meet raw materials from different cultures
Lino Scarallo, Palazzo Petrucci, Naples
Soused red mullet with a soy reduction, couscous of Roman cabbage, papaccelle and black olives. Together with the red mullet, this recipe is based on raw materials from our traditional cuisine, with a modern take, an international interpretation inspired by the Japanese preparation of eels
Gianluca D'Agostino, Veritas, Naples
Roasted mackerel with fresella, tomato and goat cheese. It’s my take on fresella with tomato and tuna/anchovies
Marianna Vitale, Sud, Quarto (Naples)
Spaghettoni with artichokes, sea urchins and cinnamon. Sweet, bitter and spicy notes are matched with the aftertaste of the sea rust (as of February it will be part of a whole menu only made of pasta)
Michele Deleo, Rossellinis di Palazzo Avino, Ravello (Salerno)
Variations on pasta, cornaioli peas, gobbo prawn and sea roe. This dish was inspired by Pasta and peas, an old recipe typical of Campania, which included the use of a beaten egg to thicken everything. I used sea roe (bottarga, sea urchns and prawns) instead of bird eggs and I didn’t cook the pasta with the peas but in a seafood broth. I finally mixed everything with sweet pecorino and crushed pepper
Lorenzo Cuomo, Re Maurì at Lloyd's Baia hotel, Salerno
Spaghetti alla chitarra with oil aromatised with oranges, turnip tops, crispy calamari and sea urchins. A rhythmical pinwheel of flavours and textures
Ernesto Iaccarino, Don Alfonso, Sant'Agata sui Due Golfi (Naples)
Crispy crustacean cylinder and emulsion of its roe with soft buffalo milk mozzarella and organic vegetables from the kitchen garden in Punta Campanella. An unusual pairing of buffalo milk mozzarella and shellfish, based on the affinity between the sweet and savoury notes of both
Giovanni Sorrentino, Gerani, Santa Maria La Carità (Naples)
Tagliolino with raw and cooked white prawns, buffalo milk yogurt, baked cherry tomatoes and liquorice. It perfectly sums up my passion and my approach in cooking. My homeland looked at with the eyes of someone who’s back after a long journey
Mario Affinita, Don Geppi, Sorrento (Naples)
Calamari become scallops with a soup of potatoes with citronella. Because you always need to go beyond appearances in life
Paolo Barrale, Marennà, Sorbo Serpico (Avellino)
Linguine "Cacio&Pepe", peas and prawns. It’s a dish based on leftovers: I thicken the pasta with the caciocavallo left over from other recipes. The cheese/peas pair is traditionally very popular from Rome southwards. And the raw prawns give that extra touch, which well matches the spiciness of the cheese
Luigi Tramontano, Terrazza Bosquet at Excelsior Vittoria, Sorrento (Naples)
Seared scampi aromatised with tonka beans, with stracciatella of burrata, coconut mousse and cream of squilla mantis. The fusion of Mediterranean flavours with creative touches in search for a balance of taste. Substance and personality
Giuseppe Iannotti. Kresios, Telese Terme (Benevento)
Veal in tuna sauce. Katsuobushi broth of veal, belly of red tuna and chard. A fusion dish built on a great classic of Italian cuisine (photo by Tania Mauri)
Luciano Villani, Locanda del Borgo, Telese Terme (Benevento)
Mussels alla scapece, mussel mayonnaise and crispy seaweeds. In a way, it represents my origins from Castellammare di Stabia. A balanced dish in terms of acidity, crispiness and sapidity
Cristian Torsiello, Osteria Arbustico, Valva (Salerno)
Raviolo with celeriac, butter and sage and colatura, lemon and white truffle. It was born from my desire to make pasta filled with a vegetable that can still be perceived on the palate: it’s in the shape of a brunoise, not the usual creamy filling. It’s paired with another fruit of the earth, that is to say truffle, together with the classic butter and sage and colatura
Peppe Guida, Antica Osteria Nonna Rosa, Vico Equense (Naples)
Broken spaghetti with broccoli and chilli pepper. I thought of presenting it in a version with garlic and oil, smoked saurel, friarielli peppers and 'nduja (photo by Valentina Santonastaso)
Gennaro Esposito, La Torre del Saracino, Vico Equense (Naples)
Lightly smoked Atlantic bonito, cream of 'nduja and tarallo from Agerola. Retro-innovation with genuine flavours
Faby Scarica and Arturo Scarfato, Villa Chiara, Vico Equense (Naples)
Eliche pasta in a sauce of friarielli peppers with anchovies, candied lemon and pecorino carmasciano. It encloses the territory of Campania, transporting it into a different context
Today’s post is entirely dedicated to two important regions in the geography and culinary scene of the southern part of Central Italy, namely Lazio and Campania. These outposts on the Tyrrhenian Sea are blessed by climate and great products from sea and land. In the creations of their great chefs (Gennaro Esposito, Heinz Beck, Cristina Bowerman, brothers Serva, Anthony Genovese, Francesco Apreda, Francesco Sposito, Marianna Vitale, Ernesto Iaccarino, Paolo Barrale...) and emerging ones (Alba Esteve Ruiz, Marco Baccanelli and Francesca Barreca, Davide Del Duca, Luciano Monosilio, Pasquale Palamaro, Salvatore Bianco, Lorenzo Cuomo, Cristian Torsiello...) dishes made with durum wheat pasta and first courses in general prevail.
Yet in this series of 50 dishes there’s enough to indulge in one’s whim what with freshwater dishes, sirloin and game, lyophilised products, ingredients coming from the woods and snails, traditional inspirations and Asian influences. Above this all, the powerful flavours of the Mediterranean area stand out, which never as today has so many strings and so many talents in its bow.
See also
2016 dish by dish (4) Emilia Romagna, Tuscany, Umbria and Marche
2016 dish by dish (3): Veneto, Friuli Venezia Giulia and Trentino Alto Adige
2016 dish by dish (2): Lombardy and Milan
2016 dish by dish (1): Piedmont, Aosta Valley and Liguria
Iside De Cesare, La Parolina, Acquapendente (Viterbo)
Cod, garlic, oil and chilli pepper
Gianfranco Pascucci, Pascucci al Porticciolo, Fiumicino (Rome)
Eel tortelli in a broth of miso and caviar. Lake of Burano, WWF oasis: eel, myrtle and lentiscus. We’re collaborating with the WWF oases to give a "taste" to these places (photo by Andrea Di Lorenzo)
Claudio Petrolo, Claudio Petrolo, Gaeta (Latina)
Sea essence. Raw and cooked elements start an explosion with the flavour of the sea
Marco Bottega, Aminta resort, Genazzano (Rome)
Salmon, green apple and Orient spices. A meeting of sour, bitter, sweet and savoury
Rocco de Santis, Il Vistamare del Fogliano hotel, Latina
Red mullet in bread crust. A snack you can also eat with your hands, enclosing the scents of the South (I’m from Salerno): it’s like biting the sea together with onion, garlic, mint, lemon scents, raisins and pine nuts
Daniele Usai, Il Tino, Ostia (Rome)
Gnocchi with mandarin, with cod tripe and spinach. A historic dish from our menu has just returned in a current version
Gino Pesce, Acqua Pazza, Ponza (Latina)
Candele, cheese, pepper, white fish and courgettes. Created for a project we presented at Expo Milano with the goal of enhancing all the POD products of Lazio
Maurizio e Sandro Serva, La Trota, Rivodutri (Rieti)
Crayfish, roots, tubers, watercress with smoked trout and lake whitefish roe. A concentrate of flavours and lightness: roots, tubers and crayfish are steamed with aromatised water, with vegetable peels and Matcha tea. There’s no salt: the sapidity is giveb by the roe, the smokiness of the trout and the minerals in the vegetables and in the watercress, picked from our brook
Andrea Fusco, Giuda Ballerino, Rome
Venison sirloin with its jus and hibiscus, caramelised onions with blueberries and pistachio wafer. Serving a rich and lean red meat that is rarely served in this season
Cristina Bowerman, Glass Hostaria, Rome
Pasta and potatoes. Four different types of potatoes, with 4 different cooking methods, from mashed to crispy. Inspired by Bottura’s Compression of pasta and beans
Anthony Genovese, Il Pagliaccio, Rome
Oyster, beetroot and coffee, snow of burrata. A journey across different scents, temperatures and textures
Francesco Apreda, Imàgo dell'hotel Hassler, Rome
Tandoori duck breast, cocoa earth and dried apricots. My personal take of a great classic from a continent I’m very fond of
Arcangelo Dandini, L'Arcangelo, Rome
My cipollata: zita with onion fondant with three spices. Taken from the Renaissance cipollata of Bartolomeo Scappi, the secret chef of 6 popes, who lived almost 30 years in Rome
Heinz Beck, La Pergola, Rome
S Campo. It’s the interpretation, with a modern take, of minestrone, made with lyophilisation. Each vegetable is cooked in the most suitable way so as to maintain its nutritional characteristics and then lyophilised. The result is 6, 7, 8 powders which are then put in the dish. The dish is served with scampi breaded with potatoes and soaked in front of the guest with a jus of this crustacean (photo by Janez Puksic)
Alba Esteve Ruiz, Marzapane, Rome
Chestnut cappeletti, raisins, smoked herring and seaweed infusion. Contrasts: the soft chestnut filling and a very persistent flavour, the smokiness and the fatness of the eel, the intense sweetness of the raisins, the sapidity of the seaweed infusion, the crispiness of the pasta...
Marco Baccanelli e Francesca Barreca, Mazzo, Rome
Roasted quails, baked tubers and roots, herb butter. The quails are served in their original shape, without deboning them. Our cuisine is moving towards a greater simplicity, and we can do so even by choosing classic yet not simple techniques
Roy Caceres, Metamorfosi, Roma
Mushrooms, flax brittle, black garlic and cream with Monviso blue cheese. In the seeming simplicity of an ingredient like mushrooms, contrasting textures give life to a dish in which their identity is surprisingly enhanced
Davide Del Duca, Osteria Fernanda, Rome
Snails, radish roots, Purgatorio beans, leaves and mustard seeds. A tribute to the material and primordial essence of the “earth” concept
Luciano Monosilio, Pipero al Rex, Rome
Vermicelli creamed in chicken broth, toasted spices and parmesan infusion. This recipe comes from spaghetti creamed in a very normal broth. The spices recall high mountains with the balsamic note counterbalanced by the sweet water of the parmesan. Almost like ramen
Marco Martini, Stazione di Posta, Rome
Steamed raviolo, chicken and broth of roasted potatoes. A meeting of east, west and my mother’s home
Francesco Sposito, Taverna Estia, Brusciano (Naples)
Tortellini with dandelion in a consommé of crustaceans. Introduced only recently, I’m very happy with it because it sums up the course we’ve taken
Vitantonio Lombardo, Locanda Severino, Caggiano (Salerno)
Mela Gras, that is to say mousse of chicken liver with dessert wine in a gelatine of annurca apples on a mixed leaf salad and hazelnuts from Giffoni. Creative and elegant cuisine with local products
Rosanna Marziale, Le Colonne, Caserta
Pasta with tomatoes. Paccheri from Gragnano with three types of tomatoes: San Marzano, piennolo and corbarino made with three different cooking techniques, with buffalo buttermilk
Pasquale Torrente, Al Convento, Cetara (Salerno)
'Ndunderi (ricotta gnocchi). These are pasta’s ancestors. They were born on the Amalfi Coast and are part of a project that this year, at Al Convento, will rediscover ancient local recipes
Christoph Bob, Monastero di Santa Rosa, Conca dei Marini (Salerno)
Linguine with nettle emulsion, salicornia and sea truffles
Giulio Coppola, La Galleria, Gragnano (Naples)
Spaghetti with lemon, with beef muzzle, pesto of olives, lupines and rocket salad. It says a lot about my territory and recalls the O Per e Muss, a street food recipe that people enjoy in the evenings in the South all year round
Pasquale Palamaro, Indaco del Regina Isabella, Ischia (Naples)
Sea foie gras. Cod liver prepared like the French geese one to make foie gras. Paired with cabbage, beetroot, ginger and toasted bread
Alfonso Caputo, La Taverna del Capitano, Massa Lubrense (Naples)
Seabream and prawns, figs and moka with sea urchin needles. The richness of the sea with the addition of an iodine note to enhance the taste through all the senses (in the photo, the summer version with cherry tomatoes from Vesuvius)
Salvatore Bianco, Il Comandante at Romeo hotel, Naples
Squid and bamboo with emulsion of cardamom with citrus fruits, soft potato with soy milk and black olives. It fully represents my cooking philosophy: ingredients from my homeland meet raw materials from different cultures
Lino Scarallo, Palazzo Petrucci, Naples
Soused red mullet with a soy reduction, couscous of Roman cabbage, papaccelle and black olives. Together with the red mullet, this recipe is based on raw materials from our traditional cuisine, with a modern take, an international interpretation inspired by the Japanese preparation of eels
Gianluca D'Agostino, Veritas, Naples
Roasted mackerel with fresella, tomato and goat cheese. It’s my take on fresella with tomato and tuna/anchovies
Marianna Vitale, Sud, Quarto (Naples)
Spaghettoni with artichokes, sea urchins and cinnamon. Sweet, bitter and spicy notes are matched with the aftertaste of the sea rust (as of February it will be part of a whole menu only made of pasta)
Michele Deleo, Rossellinis di Palazzo Avino, Ravello (Salerno)
Variations on pasta, cornaioli peas, gobbo prawn and sea roe. This dish was inspired by Pasta and peas, an old recipe typical of Campania, which included the use of a beaten egg to thicken everything. I used sea roe (bottarga, sea urchns and prawns) instead of bird eggs and I didn’t cook the pasta with the peas but in a seafood broth. I finally mixed everything with sweet pecorino and crushed pepper
Lorenzo Cuomo, Re Maurì at Lloyd's Baia hotel, Salerno
Spaghetti alla chitarra with oil aromatised with oranges, turnip tops, crispy calamari and sea urchins. A rhythmical pinwheel of flavours and textures
Ernesto Iaccarino, Don Alfonso, Sant'Agata sui Due Golfi (Naples)
Crispy crustacean cylinder and emulsion of its roe with soft buffalo milk mozzarella and organic vegetables from the kitchen garden in Punta Campanella. An unusual pairing of buffalo milk mozzarella and shellfish, based on the affinity between the sweet and savoury notes of both
Giovanni Sorrentino, Gerani, Santa Maria La Carità (Naples)
Tagliolino with raw and cooked white prawns, buffalo milk yogurt, baked cherry tomatoes and liquorice. It perfectly sums up my passion and my approach in cooking. My homeland looked at with the eyes of someone who’s back after a long journey
Mario Affinita, Don Geppi, Sorrento (Naples)
Calamari become scallops with a soup of potatoes with citronella. Because you always need to go beyond appearances in life
Paolo Barrale, Marennà, Sorbo Serpico (Avellino)
Linguine "Cacio&Pepe", peas and prawns. It’s a dish based on leftovers: I thicken the pasta with the caciocavallo left over from other recipes. The cheese/peas pair is traditionally very popular from Rome southwards. And the raw prawns give that extra touch, which well matches the spiciness of the cheese
Luigi Tramontano, Terrazza Bosquet at Excelsior Vittoria, Sorrento (Naples)
Seared scampi aromatised with tonka beans, with stracciatella of burrata, coconut mousse and cream of squilla mantis. The fusion of Mediterranean flavours with creative touches in search for a balance of taste. Substance and personality
Giuseppe Iannotti. Kresios, Telese Terme (Benevento)
Veal in tuna sauce. Katsuobushi broth of veal, belly of red tuna and chard. A fusion dish built on a great classic of Italian cuisine (photo by Tania Mauri)
Luciano Villani, Locanda del Borgo, Telese Terme (Benevento)
Mussels alla scapece, mussel mayonnaise and crispy seaweeds. In a way, it represents my origins from Castellammare di Stabia. A balanced dish in terms of acidity, crispiness and sapidity
Cristian Torsiello, Osteria Arbustico, Valva (Salerno)
Raviolo with celeriac, butter and sage and colatura, lemon and white truffle. It was born from my desire to make pasta filled with a vegetable that can still be perceived on the palate: it’s in the shape of a brunoise, not the usual creamy filling. It’s paired with another fruit of the earth, that is to say truffle, together with the classic butter and sage and colatura
Peppe Guida, Antica Osteria Nonna Rosa, Vico Equense (Naples)
Broken spaghetti with broccoli and chilli pepper. I thought of presenting it in a version with garlic and oil, smoked saurel, friarielli peppers and 'nduja (photo by Valentina Santonastaso)
Gennaro Esposito, La Torre del Saracino, Vico Equense (Naples)
Lightly smoked Atlantic bonito, cream of 'nduja and tarallo from Agerola. Retro-innovation with genuine flavours
Faby Scarica and Arturo Scarfato, Villa Chiara, Vico Equense (Naples)
Eliche pasta in a sauce of friarielli peppers with anchovies, candied lemon and pecorino carmasciano. It encloses the territory of Campania, transporting it into a different context
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