08-03-2016
Virgilio Martinez led the Peruvian delegation, featured in the auditorium on the third and last day at Identità Milano. Photo by Brambilla/Serrani, translation into English by Slawka G. Scarso
Peru is a perfect representation of the Strength of Freedom. This is why the South American country had to participate in Identità Milano 2016: because it’s a natural mix of cultures and thus cuisines, «and don’t call it fusion, which too often falls into confusion», says from the stage Sanjay Dwivedi, who’s Indian but cooks Peruvian food in London. One of many stories worth telling.
There’s that of Mitsuharu Tsumura. A Peruvian with that name? Indeed, because in the late 19th century, Lima and the surroundings were the landing place for many people: Chinese (there are 3K restaurants in town serving dishes from China), Spanish, Africans, Creole, Italians, especially from Genoa (you can find local versions of minestrone, carpaccio, pesto…) and of course Japanese, such as Mitsuharu, who points out: «Our story is a story of freedom, biodiversity and micro-climates».
Mitsuharu Tsumura
It’s then the turn of the guys from Pacifico, a Milanese fine dining Peruvian restaurant which we presented here. On stage we had the three young partners, Guillaume Desforges, Jacopo Signani and Leonardo Signani (the first is from Paris, the others from Carrara) as well as the young chef, Peruvian Ernesto Espinoza, who cooks in the same way he speaks Italian, that is to say well. «His secret? Freshness and simplicity». At Pacifico the Amazon ceviche with sea bass has a touch of hazelnuts, acidified shallot, sugar and coriander, on top of the inevitable leche de tigre, an emulsion of fish stock and lime, with a complex balance. Then we move to causa, another traditional delicacy based on a cold purée of yellow potatoes, which in the restaurant in Via della Moscova is served de-structured, seasoned with onion mayo, coriander and cream of rocoto chilli peppers, very fresh red tuna and a purée of avocado emulsified with lime, milk and salt. Mullet bottarga is grated at the end.
The team at Pacifico
Sanjay Dwivedi
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journalist born in 1974, for many years he has covered politics, mostly, and food in his free time. Today he does exactly the opposite and this makes him very happy. As soon as he can, he dives into travels and good food. Identità Golose's editor in chief