Celeriac baked in barley
With this recipe Mark Moriarty conquered the jury of the S.Pellegrino Young Chef 2015 award
In the following days we will publish the three recipes that got to the finals of the first edition of the S.Pellegrino Young Chef 2015 award, which took place on Friday 26th June at The Mall in Milan. We start with the winner, Irish chef Mark Moriarty, of the Culinary Counter in Dublin, who conquered the title with his dish totally based on celeriac, which was served in a cup that belonged to his grandmother
Irish chef Mark Moriarty, winner of the first edition of the San Pellegrino Young Chef 2015 award, when presenting his signature dish said: «It consists of a whole piece of blowtorch-charred celeriac marinated in an Irish style miso of cooked pearl barley and hay. It’s accompanied by hazelnuts and some other forms of celeriac. The strength is its punch on the palate, and its representation of traditional Irish food culture in a modern form».
by Mark Moriarty
| 02-07-2015 | Signature Dishes
The Russian potential
Ample resources and science’s founding fathers. Inside the pavilion of the largest country in the world
The entrance to the pavilion of the Russian Federation at Expo. The pavilion is focused on the large food resources of the country and on the historic role of the great scientists Mendeleev, Vavilov and Vernadskij
Il giorno in cui la Russia prenderà davvero consapevolezza del tesoro su cui è seduta saranno dolori per tutti. È il primo pensiero che viene in mente a chi scrive, appena dopo aver superato la linea d’ingresso dell’ambizioso padiglione, dedicato «alla forza della terra del paese, alle sue distese e inesauribili ricchezze», è scritto giustamente nei pannelli esplicativi appena dietro alla 'concierge'. Dal Caucaso alla Kamchatka si sommano infatti 180 popoli, divisi in 11 regioni, 17 milioni di chilometri quadrati che ospitano le più grandi riserve d’acqua dolce dell’emisfero settentrionale terrestre (un quinto del totale mondiale, circa), la più vasta produzione di colture cerealicole e circa un decimo delle terre arabili del Pianeta. Un patrimonio che fa brillare gli occhi ai cuochi più illuminati della generazione post-sovietica (sui quali abbiamo scritto a suo tempo).
by Gabriele Zanatta
| 01-07-2015 | 10:00 | Tutto Expo
Grant Achatz, perpetual motion
An interview with the great chef from Chicago, a tumour in his past and a mine of ideas and projects ahead
An intense close up shot of Grant Achatz, 41, originally from St.Clair, Michigan. In 2004 he opened Alinea in Chicago, 3 Michelin stars and 26th in the World's 50Best (after his position at number 6). In April 2011 he also opened Next and cocktail bar The Aviary. In the autumn, Roister will open and in 2016 Alinea will change looks in Chicago and will also be a pop-up restaurant in Miami and Madrid
Besides lists and acknowledgements, in order to truly understand the value of Grant Achatz two facts could be enough. The first is in his biography, and you can get more details in the best-seller “Life, On the Line” (on sale on Amazon), written by the chef from St. Clair (Michigan) together with his partner since the early days, Nick Kokonas. In 2008 he had a cancer in his tongue diagnosed. Experts suggested the complete removal of the organ with following radio and chemotherapy. They even gave him two years left. He did not accept the solution and trusted an experimental protocol launched by the University of Chicago. At the end of an exhausting series of treatments, in 2009 they told him every trace of the illness had disappeared.
by Gabriele Zanatta
| 29-06-2015 | 14:00 | Zanattamente buono
World restaurants in Milan - 2
The best international cuisine in town: the second episode with Africa and Asia
The nice dining room in one of the brunches of restaurant Vietnamonamour (the one in Via Taramelli to be precise) is the cover of the second part of our series on the best food offered by international restaurants in Milan. After Europe and North and South America, here are Africa and Asia
After having selected the ten best international restaurants in Milan, dedicated to the food of Europe and North and South America last week, we once again cover the international cuisine offer in the city of the Expo 2015 and focus on the locations where you can find the culinary tradition of Africa and Asia (though for Japan and China you need to check the articles dedicated to each country).
by Niccoḷ Vecchia
| 29-06-2015 | Fuori Expo
Here’s how we want to change the world
An interview with Gastón Acurio: a global partnership between chefs and farmers for a greater social justice
Gastón Acurio last Friday with Daniel Canzian, at restaurant Daniel in Milan
«Food is the most powerful weapon of peace» says Gastón Acurio at Identità Expo in front of an audience enchanted by his words. The same words that also charmed Mario Vargas Llosa, Nobel prize for literature in 2010, captured by the dream of this chef-leader who changed his country and promises he’ll change our own a little too: «We live in a country with many limits and faults. Yet in the hands of this man, our cooking becomes one of the richest in the world. No one has done so much for Peru as Gastón Acurio».
by Carlo Passera
| 28-06-2015 | Identità Expo
Moriarty wins the #SPYoungChef 2015
Ireland triumphs in the first edition of the contest. All the comments from the great jurors
It is midnight, between Friday 26th and Saturday 27th June: at the end of a long and exciting day (and season), Irish Mark Moriarty (chef at restaurant The Culinary Council in Dublin) wins the first edition of the S.Pellegrino Young Chef 2015. The Best chef-designer couple was also awarded, voted by the guests of the night and online: in both cases, Peruvian-Brazilian couple Maria José Jordan and Paula Cademartori won. The prize for Best designer decided by Vogue Italia went to Chinese Xiao Li
E dopo 14 ore di fatiche, uscì vincitore della prima edizione del S.Pellegrino Young Chef of The Year un irlandese, Mark Moriarty (The Culinary Counter, Dublino), autore di uno splendido Sedano rapa cotto nell’orzo e nel fieno fermentato. Ha trionfato sconfiggendo al rush finale il dessert di Maria José Jordan (ristorante Amaz, Lima), l’unica donna in gara di 20 partecipanti - suo il dessert “Immortal technique: limone, rosmarino e gin”, «un piatto molto interessante», commentava il suo mentore, il grande chef nippo-peruviano Mitsuharu Tsumura, in arte Maido, «pochi ingredienti, distribuiti in modo intelligente - e il norvegese Christian André Pettersen (Spiseriet, Stavanger), firmatario di un piatto che fa incontrare due mondi, East meets west.
by Gabriele Zanatta
| 27-06-2015 | Primo piano
Postcards from #SPYoungChef
The people and dishes in the first part of the great event in Milan. Peru, Ireland and Norway play for the top
PARTERRE DE ROI. The jurors in the first edition of the S.Pellegrino Young Chef, in line this morning in the basement of the Mall in Milan, in Porta Nuova. Left to right, American Grant Achatz, Peruvian Gaston Acurio, French Yannick Alleno, Massimo Bottura from Modena, South African Margot Janse, Japanese Yoshihiro Narisawa and Catalan Joan Roca (photo gallery by Alice Cateni, Elisa Pella and Zanatta)
What a day at the S.Pellegrino Young Chef. Since this morning, hundreds of cooks are at work in the basement of the Mall, a huge space we had no idea existed under the Diamond Tower, one of the symbols of a Milan growing upwards. Since 10 am the super-jury is hard at work to taste the dishes of the 20 guys, assessing every aspect, not just the taste. To proclaim the best chef under30 in the world we need to wait for midnight, when we’ll report everything in detail. There are 3 final contenders: Peruvian Maria José Jordan (Amaz, Lima), the only woman in the contest; Norwegian Christian André Pettersen (Spiseriet, Stavanger) and Irish Mark Moriarty (The Culinary Counter, Dublin).
by Gabriele Zanatta
| 26-06-2015 | 16:00 | Primo piano
On being Griffa’s mentor
The super finals of the S.Pellegrino Young Chef are to be tomorrow. An interview with Cristina Bowerman who coached the Italian candidate
Paolo Griffa, sous chef at Piccolo Lago in Verbania and Italian candidate at the S.Pellegrino Young Chef of the Year, with his mentor Cristina Bowerman, chef at Glass Hostaria, Rome. Tomorrow Griffa will have to compete with 19 young talents from around the world. The winner is to be announced around midnight
È la vigilia della finalissima del S.Pellegrino Young Chef 2015, la prima edizione di un concorso che farà molto parlare di sé negli anni a venire. Domani all Mall di Milano si ritroveranno cuochi tra i più talentuosi al mondo. Due decine di finalisti i quali, dopo aver superato diverse selezioni, si confronteranno di fronte all’insindacabile giudizio di 7 saggi, 7 cuochi dal calibro mondiale come Gastón Acurio, Yannick Alléno, Massimo Bottura, Margot Janse, Yoshihiro Narisawa, Éric Ripert e Joan Roca.
by Gabriele Zanatta
| 25-06-2015 | 10:00 | Identità Expo
Sustainable meals at Expo
A green guide to the World Fair: here are 5 pavilions where you can eat the most sustainable dishes
On top of working every day at her programme, The CooKing Show, live at Expo and on Rai3, Lisa Casali found the time to explore the pavilions, in search for good, vegetarian offers with a low environmental impact
What are the food expectations for Expo visitors? For sure they want to taste dishes that represent the message of that country, especially when it comes to sustainable agriculture, to ingredients capable of answering the challenges of an ever-growing global population. Yet how can we tell a dish is sustainable? The most objective criterion is the environmental impact...
by Lisa Casali
| 24-06-2015 | 10:00 | Green
World restaurants in Milan - 1
The best international cuisine in town: the first episode with Europe and North and South America
Tapas, paella, fideua: these are some of the dishes offered by the spanish restaurant Llevataps. It's one of the ten we chose to showcase the international restaurants of Milan. In this first part we'll talk about those who are dedicated to European and American cuisines, next week we will focus instead on Asia and Africa
Our exploration and selection of Milan’s restaurants continues. International cuisine in Milan is certainly rather complex: in fact, we’ve already dedicated two recent episodes to Japan and China. This week and the next we will focus on the “rest of the world", starting from...
by Niccoḷ Vecchia
| 22-06-2015 | 10:00 | Fuori Expo