Kyiv Cake and others delights
The gastronomic scene of the Ukranian capital is more and more rich. Our storytell, with a recipe
The Kyiv Cake from the restaurant Klukva i Brukva.
Kyiv Kitchen? The first thing that comes to mind is the truly famous Chicken Kiev, but definitely not everything here tastes like chicken. When the local market (bazar) is full of fresh produce from the surrounding villages, one goes for green borsch with sorrel and nettles (no beets, no tomato), fresh cheeses, freshwater fish, Danube herring. We do add sour cream on top of everything, from salad and borsch to sweet cherry varenyky (pierogi), puff cheese fritters or "lazy" cheese dumplings, and, made of milk from green pasture, it makes a difference.
by Marina Mayevska
Best Before with Pietro Leemann
Lisa Casalis new column debuts. Inviting everyone to cook using 3 ingredients close to their best-before-date
In Lisa Casali’s illustration, the Mediterranean rice cake with asparagus and strawberries by Pietro Leemann, chef at restaurant Joia in Milan. The challenge, launched by the author on the latest Earth Day is that of having chefs and readers create a dish with 3 ingredients from their fridge close to their best before date, so as to enhance them and not waste them. Write to email@example.com
On "Earth Day" we launched a challenge: create a dish with 3 ingredients from your fridge, close to their best before date, so as to enhance them and not waste them. The first to accept the challenge was, it is no coincidence, a chef who has always moved against the tide and is committed in terms of environmental sustainability and enhancement of the vegetal world. It’s Pietro Leemann, chef at Joia in Milan, and his fridge is the first to debut on Best Before, Identità Golose’s new column.
by Lisa Casali
Milan Cuisine Week
Identità supports the idea emerging from the summit between Martina, Sala and the chefs
Paolo Marchi, minister Maurizio Martina and the ex Expo commissary Giuseppe Sala at yesterday’s meeting organised by Identità Golose. They discussed the state of the restaurant industry in Milan, one year after the World Fair
Let’s put it this way: had yesterday’s meeting created by Identità Golose at Fondazione Catella, in Milan, been organised elsewhere – say, Rome – it would have been a simple meeting of institutions and local chefs: a few promises, a little chat and then all off to the final buffet (which was in fact excellent, prepared by host Cesare Battisti). Instead, we were in Milan, and the productive and concrete spirit of the city appears to have influenced the summit which, in less than two hours of discussions, led to an excellent idea: organising a Settimana milanese della Cucina [Milan Cuisine Week] of course with institutions and privates joining forces, as Milan l’è on gran Milan.
by Carlo Passera
Niko rediscovering fire
In Seoul Romito dismisses vacuum cooking and presents his roasted savoy in a country in love with cabbage
A customary picture of Niko Romito as soon as he arrived on the lowest floor of the double bridge, the perfect location for the stands at a very fun and tasty event, Picnic on the bridge, which took place in Seoul on Thursday 5th May, South Korea’s national holiday, a whole day dedicated to celebrating children
Niko Romito was the one to open the 2016 edition of the Seoul Food Festival, a programme created and organised by Belgian photographer Jean-Pierre Gabriel, who’s always so kind in praising Identità Golose, in the ceremony hall at the Four Seasons which opened in the South Korean capital only seven months ago. Seoul means over 10 million inhabitants in a country, South Korea, that has 50, basically one fifth of the population which in fact becomes half, 25, if we consider it together with Incheon, where the port and airport are located, and the residential area of Seongnam. All this in an area that is only one third of Italy.
by Paolo Marchi
Korean Tajarin, with garlic
Seoul enhances its history and takes influences from a bit everywhere so as to become a global gourmet capital
i>Cow parsnip leaf & Tajarin, egg tagliolini, seasoned with toasted garlic and parsnip leaves, presented by Jun Lee, patron chef at Soigné in Seoul. 33 this year, Jun Lee opened his restaurant on 24th December 2014: «I know it’s Christmas Eve but not over here, for me it was the first possible day after the works and tests»
The event that has just taken place in the capital of South Korea was two events in one. The Seoul Food Festival has a popular side and a professional one. The first consisted, on Thursday 5th May, of a day with food in the streets, which was not always street food, for sure not the one presented by the ten speakers, including Pascal Barbot and Niko Romito. The Korean organisers and the master of ceremonies Jean-Pierre Gabriel, Belgian with horizons as wide as the planet, chose a nice name: Picnic on the bridge. Bridges abound here since Seoul is an endless series of islands, peninsulas and mainland that all need to be united.
by Paolo Marchi
Big celebrations in Astino, Bergamo
On 29th May, Da Vittorios fiftieth anniversary and the presentation of Ea(s)t Lombardy
East Lombardy will be the European region of gastronomy in 2017. The prestigious role will be officially presented this 29th May, on the occasion of Da Vittorio’s 50thanniversary
Sunday 29th May, the monastery of Astino (Bergamo), 8 pm. An important place and time, worth noting down: it will unite three big events, the official opening of the Year of Tourism in Lombardy; the international preview of the Ea(s)t Lombardy - European Region of Gastronomy in 2017 project; and the 50th anniversary of restaurant Da Vittorio, a historic point of reference in Lombardy’s and international fine dining. On this occasion, over 20 chefs from starred restaurants across East Lombardy will meet, so as to celebrate Bruna Cerea, with Enrico, Francesco, Barbara, Roberto and Rossella. The event will be open to the public, starting at 8 pm on 29th May. More info here.
Personal revenge against Pepe
Heres why the event in Caserta was cancelled: an interview with Daniel Young, curator of Where To Eat Pizza
Daniel Young with Franco Pepe. The latter had to cancel the presentation of his Where To Eat Pizza, which was to be held at Caserta’s Royal Palace. He tells Identità Golose why (photo by Luciano Furia)
In the past few hours much has been said, at least among insiders, about the "Pepe case", that is to say Phaidon’s decision to cancel the big presentation of Where To Eat Pizza, the new global guide to the best pizzerias in the world, edited by Daniel Young, which was to be held at Caserta’s Royal Palace.
by Carlo Passera
Franco Pepe, a triumph with a mystery
Hes the first in Phaidons list of the best pizzerias in the world. Yet he wont go to the presentation in Casertas Royal Palace...
Where to eat pizza is the guide to the best pizzerias in the world written by Daniel Young for Phaidon. It assigns the first place to Pepe in Grani from Caiazzo (Caserta), not without some nuisance...
A triumph with a mystery is the title we gave to this article. This is so because as Italians we often know how to harm ourselves, we prefer to affect everyone as long as nobody excels, even if deserving, thus standing in the way of the just celebration. It’s a known fact that envy is a bad thing, and a story – no matter how glorious – can be weighed down by this heritage of our most pejorative identity: not feeling proud of one’s identity, but leading a silly and even suicidal local rivalry.
by Carlo Passera
The sharing restaurant
A report on the size of dishes: interview with Catalan Oriol Castro, chef at Compartir
Salted cod cakes with honey at restaurant Compartir. It was opened in April 2012 in Cadaqués in Cataluña by Oriol Castro, Eduard Xatruch and Mateu Casañas. The restaurant’s concept is anticipated by the name itself: all dishes are to be shared. The success was so big, in 2014 the 3 guys also opened Disfrutar in Barcelona, "avantgarde with strong Mediterranean roots" (photo Francesc Guillamet)
Does size matter in a restaurant? We’ve been discussing this for a few weeks now with a report on dish sizes. We started with Marco Stabile’s report, the first chef to introduce in Italy, in December 2005, a tapa menu and Matteo Fronduti, a pioneer in Milan. Two different ways of interpreting half portions. Today we interview Oriol Castro, Catalan chef from Compartir in Cadaqués in Cataluña, an interesting format as it is entirely focused on sharing dishes. An innovative trick which in a way is as old as times.
by Gabriele Zanatta
An exploration of the streets of New York, looking for these 100% american vintage places
Il Tom's Restaurant è una vera icona di New York. Non solo dà il titolo a una canzone del 1987 di Suzanne Vega (che cambiò leggermente il nome in Tom's Diner). Ma è stato anche per diversi anni uno dei luoghi in cui si svolgeva la popolarissima sit-com Seinfeld, tra le più seguite nella storia della tv americana
“I am sitting in the morning at the diner on the corner, I am waiting at the counter for the man to pour the coffee” crooned Suzanne Vega a few years ago, underlining a custom that in the US is repeated, unchanged, every day. A long counter, a little greasy perhaps, surrounded by leather stools, ketchup bottles, customers lost in their thoughts; neon signage, long street facing windows, formica tables and cups of coffee served with stacked up blueberry pancakes.
by Federica Carr
The coolest street in Cape Town
Bree Street has become the centre of the citys movida. A list of the most interesting places
Giovanna Sartor guides us through Bree Street, the new place for Cape Town’s movida
M.P. White beyond commonplaces
Genius and wildness, professionalism and commercials for a chef who changed the history of cuisine
Tokyo Cervigni presents – debated yet charismatic - Marco Pierre White, the English chef who conquered the French without ever visiting France. Photos are taken from www.marcopierrewhite.co
Peru, 48 times Gaston Acurio
Expected to become a politician, the chef opened as many restaurants as his birthdays. 19 in Lima alone
Fine dining one year after Expo
366 days after the events debut, a (positive) evaluation of its contribution to the restaurant industry
The Minister for Agricultural Policies Maurizio Martina, Massimo Bottura, Claudio Ceroni of MagentaBureau, the then Expo commissioner Giuseppe Sala and Prime Minister Matteo Renzi at the Identità Expo temporaryrestaurant, precisely one year ago
The Italian Cuisine Week
The new event was presented at Farnesina: from the 21st till the 27th November our chefs in 130 countries around the world
A significant step was taken to valorise Italian food around the world: for the first time the Work group for the valorisation of high quality Italian cuisine abroad met. Identità Golose was also there
Il Casolare: more than mozzarella
Mimmo La Vecchias cheese factory has been experimenting with buffalo milk cheese for a couple of years now
Mimmo La Vecchia, to the right, with his son Benito: the passion for the family dairy business at Il Casolare di Alvignano (Caserta) is genetic
Lima, first stop at the market
In order to understand Peruvian taste, one should visit the one in Surquillo, with lots of quality and gritty Erica
Erica, the owner of the best ceviche stand inside the Surquillo market in Lima
Peru, charming biodiversity
Lima, capital of a country with 2,700 different potatoes, hosts the Global Forum on Gastro Tourism
Those arriving these days at Lima’s international airport, in the great baggage reclaim area will only find posters presenting the Global Forum on Gastronomy Tourism scheduled from the 27th till the 29th April in the Peruvian capital
On a carriage at Yam'Tcha
Cristina Bowerman take us to Chi Wahs and Adelines restaurant in Paris. A journey between East and West
Chi Wah Chan from Hong Kong and French Adeline Grattard, husband and wife. Respectively maître/ tea sommelier and chef, have opened Yam'Tcha in 2009 in the Les Halles area, in Paris. It’s so successful you need to reserve long in advance (photo from Pinterest)
Cannavacciuolo, the motivator
After the show at the Stadio Olimpico, the chef tells us about this new dimension of his. Between stove and training
Antonino Cannavacciuolo, patron at Villa Crespi in Orta San Giulio (Novara), 2 Michelin stars, portrayed last 19th April at the Stadio Olimpico in Rome. The chef from Vico Equense, born in 1975, founded the Cannavacciuolo Academy, a training firm that teaches aspiring cooks how to become “perfect restaurateurs" (photo by Carlo Lannutti for cucina.corriere.it)
The new Artusi? Based on food waste
Botturas appearance at Centomani: his anti-waste recipe book and then Refettori, Unesco, smart land...
Massimo Bottura’s speech at Centomani di questa terra, in Polesine Parmense. With him on stage, Caterina Fabbro, fundraiser at Antoniano Onlus, and Cristina Reni of Food for Soul
Bordeaux 2015: plenty of emotions
Châteaux and great wines under the spotlight in Bordeaux. A city renovated thanks to the Citè du Vin
The new and beautiful Citè du Vin in Bordeaux, entirely dedicated to wine culture
Earth Day 2016
We celebrate the day dedicated to our planet with an anti-waste challenge
Yesterday was Earth Day 2016, the greatest environmental event on the planet. We can all contribute in our own small way and not only on this day (the photo is taken from “Inside chefs’ fridges, Europe”, Taschen with photos of Massimo Bottura, Hélène Darroze e Magnus Nilsson’s fridges)
Sweden swindles our margherita
Stockholm is to award Sweden's Best Pizza. Lets take comfort with the 16 best pizzerias in Naples
David Chang of Momofuku announces: stop banning taking pictures of the dishes. A growing trend
There’s been a turnabout, especially in the Anglo-Saxon gourmet scene, where many prestigious restaurants forbade guests to take pictures of their dishes: the capitulation to Instagram seems inevitable. The most famous and recent case is that of David Chang, who was one of the first to say enough at Momofuku Ko