Alciati and Vetri: milk is the superstar
The last lecture of the third day, with risotto and meat enjoying a milky touch
Marc Vetri, an Italian-American chef who’s very popular in Philadelphia with Vetri Ristorante and other establishments and Ugo Alciati of Guido in Serralunga d'Alba (Cuneo), the authors, yesterday, of a lecture on milk at Eataly New York. Tomorrow, the last two lessons with Davide Scabin and Fortunato Nicotra (with a focus on pasta) and Vito Mollica and Rita Sodi (beans)
This lesson is a focus on milk. And who better than Ugo Alciati, Expo Ambassador for milk, could share his opinion? At Identità we know very well the splendid liquid he uses for the fiordilatte served at his Guido in the Langhe, the same sold to Eataly’s ice cream shops around the world, Lait, and the same that charmed the guests the previous night here in New York inside the Birreria. As the American public doesn’t know this, however, here’s his short summary: «This milk comes from a white Piedmontese cow, which grazes in the mountains: it produces very little but very good milk».
by Gabriele Zanatta
| 03-10-2015 | Primo piano
Benno and Cracco, how delicious
Risotto, salted codfish and salmon. The chefs from New York and Vicenza present 3 exemplary dishes
Jonathan Benno of restaurant Lincoln in New York and Carlo Cracco of the homonymous restaurant in Milan. The first explored the boundaries of salmon; the second successfully presented two dishes now in his menu in Milan: risotto and salted codfish, two emblems of Vicenza
The awaited turn of Jonathan Benno and Carlo Cracco, protagonists of the first lecture at Identità New York 6, on day 3, has arrived. It starts with the chef from restaurant Lincoln waving a filet of salmon: «It’s from Ora King, we get it from New Zealand because we’re sure they farm it in a sustainable way».
by Gabriele Zanatta
| 02-10-2015 | Primo piano
White and Bottura: the value of bread
A sparkling lecture held by the American and Modenese chefs takes this basic food to paradise
Left to right, Michael White, of Marea in New York and Massimo Bottura of Osteria Francescana in Modena, the authors of a splendid lecture on bread at Eataly New York (to their left, Michael White’s two assistants and Davide Di Fabio – the right arm of the Modenese chef). And tonight, everyone’s dining in the Birreria
Hurricane Bottura arrives for the sixth year in a row in Manhattan with force 5. «Today I’m here to make passatelli with breadcrumbs instead of flour», he bursts on the kitchen desk inside Eataly’s Scuola «but before anything else, let me thank Davide Di Fabio, who’s been in the kitchen with me for 11 years, since he was 18. Today he’s part of my body, my right arm, my third son». Right after that, Vince Girasole impeccably adds on the microphone: «Bottura is from Modena, the city of fast cars. His cooking, however, is a slow one». The harquebus Massimo waves as it pulls out the passatelli is also slow and comes from the past: «My grandmother used to use it». This is the incipit of “Autumn in New York”, «A motive that starts from my passion for jazz and Billie Holiday».
by Gabriele Zanatta
| 01-10-2015 | Primo piano
Batali-Cedroni: add some oil
A sparkling lesson from this eccentric couple at Identità New York. Dedicated to extra virgin olive oil
Mario Batali, at the helm of Babbo and of many other restaurants in the Big Apple and Moreno Cedroni, chef at Madonnina del Pescatore in Senigallia (Ancona) pose in front of Eataly and the Flatiron before their lecture, the second at Identità New York. The leitmotiv: extra virgin olive oil
«Moreno Cedroni is the fish whisperer. He knows raw fish and cooked fish very well, and uses the same approach with them. He recalls the original texture of each fish and when he cooks it, he proves he respects it fully». There couldn’t be any better presentation of Cedroni than the one Mario Batali, co-author of this second lesson at Identità New York, gave.
| 01-10-2015 | Primo piano
Ode to tomatoes
Mantuano and Migliaccio open Identità New York 6 with a great lesson on an emblematic ingredient
Tony Mantuano of restaurant Spiaggia in Chicago and Andrea Migliaccio of Olivo del Capri Palace in Capri (Naples), the authors of the first joint lecture at Identità New York, inside Eataly New York’s Scuola on Fifth Avenue, next to Madison Park. The two colleagues praised tomatoes, an ingredient that unites two continents
The sixth edition of Identità New York saw the debut on our stage of Andrea Migliaccio, from Ischia, for a few years now at the helm of Olivo inside the Capri Palace, 2 Michelin stars on the nearby island. «At Olivo we handle menus rich in fish, vegetables and extra virgin olive oil and of course tomato. My cooking is simple, 3-4 ingredients per dish maximum». Raviolo caprese, the topic of the lecture, is a celebration of an emblematic dish (two, in fact: salad and dessert). In this case it’s a first course. The preparation: «Pasta is rolled out with water at around 80°C», says the chef, «an elastic mixture with a significant thickness, made with water and Petra flour, which does its job without requiring any eggs». The filling is made with ricotta from Sorrento «matured for 20 days and chopped marjoram». Once composed, the ravioli are cooked in unsalted water.
by Gabriele Zanatta
| 30-09-2015 | Primo piano
Waiter for a day
Jorunalist Zanatta waits on the tables at Osteria Francescana, Bottura's restaurant. This results in 30 notes
Wednesday 23rd September: journalist Gabriele Zanatta (in the middle) dresses the part of a waiter for a day at Osteria Francescana in Modena, the formula one of Italian restaurants (3 Michelin stars, second restaurant in the world according to the World's 50Best). The kitchen staff, left to right: Pino Cesareo, Denis Bretta, Andrea Garelli, Francesca Riggio, Zanatta, Fabio Galletta, Sara Lucchese, Pier Pullega, maître Giuseppe Palmieri and Luca Garelli
Zanatta (giornalista di Identità Golose): «Pronto, buongiorno Giuseppe, sarei interessato e onorato a passare un turno di servizio in sala da voi, credi sia possibile?».
Palmieri (maître dell'Osteria Francescana): «Certo, aspetta che controllo un attimo l’agenda. Mercoledì 23 settembre, può andare?»
Z: «Ehm, proprio la sera che gioca l’Inter a San Siro?».
P: «Sì, così capisci le rinunce cui va incontro tutti i giorni un cameriere».
Z: «Detta così non posso rifiutare 😬».
P: «Porta completo nero e camicia bianca. E ricorda che un bravo cameriere lo giudichi soprattutto dalle scarpe. La cravatta te la do io».
Z: «Grazie. Sono terrorizzato».
P: «E’ giusto che tu lo sia. Ci vediamo il 23».
by Gabriele Zanatta
| 29-09-2015 | 10:00 | Zanattamente buono
Mollica with beans in New York
The chef from Basilicata is one of the protagonists at Identità on 5th Avenue. With a recipe based on legumes...
Vito Mollica will be one of the "Magnificent 16" chef-protagonists of the next edition of Identità New York, to be held in the US metropolis, at Eataly on Fifth Avenue, from Wednesday 30th September till Saturday 3rd October
La prima volta è sempre la più bella: «Non ho mai partecipato a un congresso d’Identità Golose. Ovvio che sono emozionato: è un’opportunità unica per trasmettere la propria esperienza all’interno di un circuito serio e importante, quale è quello che voi avete creato». Con un plus: «Saremo a New York e, che dire… Tutto risulterà ancora più magico». Vito Mollica sarà uno dei protagonisti della prossima Identità New York. Lo raggiungiamo a Milano, al “suo” Four Seasons, «ma domani sarò a Firenze», perché continua a seguire anche la cucina dell’indirizzo toscano della stessa catena di hotel di lusso. Poi, giovedì, il balzo oltreoceano.
by Carlo Passera
| 28-09-2015 | 12:00 | Primo piano
The return of Aaron London
The American chef, after vegetarian Ubuntu, conquered San Francisco with his new AL's Place
Aaron London: a James Beard Foundation Award nomination, a Michelin star conquered with the totally vegetarian restaurant Ubuntu, in Napa Valley. After this experience, however, it took him four years to find the necessary funds to open his dream restaurant: AL's Place (tel. +1.415.4166136). But when he managed, in little less than a year he got the success he desired
How would you react if a chef in disgrace, back from a six-month retire in Tuscany would take away the best steak in town from the restaurant next door and tried to explain that panzanella is no good? This is specious question but it’s also the perfect description of how partial I was when Aaron London opened his AL's Place – twenty metres and a floor below my home, where once was a flea-bitten diner that grilled a rib-eye steak like no others, twenty-four hours per day.
by Cristiano Valli
| 27-09-2015 | Dal Mondo
A snapper turns into a sea urchin
Igles Corelli’s zero waste recipe enhances every part of the fish. Including the scales
A snapper turns into a sea urchin, a dish presented by Igles Corelli at "The CooKing Show" the show presented by Lisa Casali. The dish enhances every part of the snapper, including the scales, in an innovative and interesting way (photos by Abraham Caprani)
An eco-chef from the start, even before it became trendy, today his philosophy of circular cuisine is contemporary and in some ways pioneering. Igles, chef at Atman, in Villa Rospigliosi, Spicchio di Lamporecchio, Pistoia, has an innovative and creative approach with raw materials, including the less noble ones.
by Lisa Casali
| 24-09-2015 | 10:00 | Green
Digestibility is all that matters
Simone Padoan: the choice of serving one pizza at a time, and in slices, is for healthier eating
Simone Padoan, from Veneto, for twenty years at the helm of pizzeria I Tigli in San Bonifacio, the last town in the province of Verona before Vicenza. Padoan has always worked so that pizza would be treated with the same dignity as a fine dining dish
I found the debate about pizza currently taking place on the Identità Golose website interesting and I’m happy to present my point of view. Some people love the edge, the cornicione; some love the centre, the boccone del prete. When I started to offer pizza served in slices at I Tigli, exactly 20 years ago, I didn’t do it because I wanted to enhance one part of the most famous edible disc in the world instead of the other, but because I wanted to stop the avidity that has almost always characterised pizza eaters.
by Simone Padoan
| 23-09-2015 | 14:00 | Chefs' life stories