Identità New York 2014
The fifth edition is scheduled from Thursday, October 9th - Sunday, October 12th at Eataly NYRead more
Identità Milano 2015
A healthy intelligence
The eleventh edition is scheduled from February 8th through 10th 2015
The alliance of women in the food sector
The Parabere Forum took place in Bilbao. There were many Italian representatives, including Cristina Bowerman whom we asked to write about it
“Il forum Parabere vuole creare un potente network globale al fine di rafforzare l'influenza delle donne nel campo del food. Il forum intende promuovere la diversità e favorire il contributo delle donne al settore gastronomico”. Avevo letto di questo forum organizzato da Maria Canabal e avevo pensato che non avrei potuto mancare. Quindi quando è arrivata la telefonata di Elisia Menduni che mi annunciava l'invito, ho accettato senza pensarci due volte nonostante i difficili incastri con gli impegni a Roma.
39-year-old Canadian chef Daniel Burns of restaurant Luksus at Thorst, a bistro seating 26 people included in a beer bar in Greenpoint, Brooklyn, New York, one Michelin star without having a single wine in the list. "Why beer?", he explained during his lesson at Identità Milano, "why not?" (photo credits Brambilla/Serrani)
One needed the gift of ubiquity, it’s often been said, to be able to appreciate the content of each of the 86 speakers in the eleventh edition of Identità Milano. Despite missing many, we were lucky enough to be able to listen to one closely.
Knowledge for training
Roman Enrico Camelio, born in 1971, with his guys at Majestic. He’s a teacher at the Pellegrino Artusi Catering School in Rome and a fine dining consultant
Creating an extraordinary cocktail of warmth and empathy; following you without ending up as being invasive; making you laugh without exaggerating; getting inside your head, anticipating your needs almost before they are expressed. This may appear as the profile of the ideal partner. In fact, we’re talking about a waiter. A profession which often isn’t given the right value. To work in the best possible way, you need a comprehensive knowledge.
In 2 thousand and a few years, western gastronomy has never experienced the interests it has been subjected to in the past decade. Today, however, we have so distanced ourselves from the platonic edict (in essence: what we eat has to do with the second-rate parts of the human soul, something we are obliged to do, best not to analyse it too much) that suddenly each gesture each human being does at least twice a day, that is to say eat, has become profoundly interesting. Just like art...
A wall of photographers and journalists, this is what the Minister for Agricultural Policies Maurizio Martina faced at the end of the first Forum della Cucina Italiana which took place on Monday 2nd March in the headquarters of the Ministry for Agricultural Resources in Rome
Maurizio Martina, Minister for agricultural policies: “This is a sui generis invitation but one needs to start somewhere to speak with you chefs. Here there’s the best, not everything, yet if one needs to choose between doing and not doing, it is best to do”.
Martina 2: “The Forum della Cucina Italiana must be looked at as a stable working tool between institutions and the restaurant industry. It’s an opportunity, something concrete on which to work in order to leave a...
Tokuyoshi, no ifs, ands and buts
The protagonist of one of the most awaited debuts in Milan, Yoji Tokuyoshi, previously Massimo Bottura’s second, who opened his restaurant (Via San Calocero 3, tel.) in the same rooms where Wicky Priyan’s Wicky's was once located
Here we told you about the upcoming arrival in town of one of the most awaited chefs, Japanese Yoji Tokuyoshi. We dined at his restaurant a few nights ago. What did we write down in our palate reporters’ notebook?
Carlo Cracco and Massimo Bottura fold out the Italian flag at the super-lunch held at Harrods in London on 28th April 2013 when seven Italian chefs gave life to what the English called The Lunch of a Lifetime
Without going too far back in time, to when Identità Golose was still held in Piazza degli Affari in Milan and brothers Massimiliano and Raffaele Alajmo, three restaurants in Veneto with a total of 5 Michelin stars made a plea for authorities to pay attention to the Italian restaurant industry: the time has come. Today, on Monday 2nd March, the Minister of Agricultural, Food and Forestry Authorities Maurizio Martina “summoned at Mipaaf [the Ministry] 25 among the most important Italian chefs for the first Forum della cucina italiana [Forum of Italian Cuisine] coordinated by...
Claudio Liu, Italian-Chinese patron at restaurant Iyo in Milan, was one of the participants in the discussion on restaurants – coordinated by Paolo Marchi – at Expo delle Idee, organised in Milan last 7th February. Tomorrow a second event will take place, in view of the creation of the Carta di Milano, this time at the Ministry guided by Maurizio Martina. We will soon give you a detailed report on this
Sitting at the Round Table organised by the Ministry for Agricultural Policies and, in particular, at the table "Aggiungi un posto a tavola: la ristorazione di domani", dedicated to the future of restaurants and coordinated by Paolo Marchi, was a very interesting and stimulating experience. The opportunity for confrontation with other professionals, each one with their business philosophy, their vision of food and the restaurant industry, let some complex themes emerge as well as visions that were sometimes opposite.
Dutch-Italian chef Eugenio Jacques Christian Boer, after closing the experience with Enocratia and some consultancy jobs, a few weeks ago returned to direct the kitchen of a gourmet restaurant. Essenza, in Via Marghera in Milan (tel. +39.02.4986865) – of which we wrote here. The latter was also one of the restaurants participating in Birra Moretti’s Il piacere in abito da sera. It was on that very occasion that we had the opportunity to taste this splendid dish, perfectly paired with Birra Moretti Grand Cru
This dish is strongly reminiscent of my beautiful experience beside Norbert Niederkofler at St.Hubertus in San Cassiano, in Alta Val Badia. I have balanced the flavours based on the sweet cooking of the arctic char and inspired by the mountains where it lives. I thus needed a good risotto as a base, made fresh with a nice mix of herbs, not too heavy and with a few “special” notes. This is why there’s oil aromatised with ashes and the horseradish is raw. I then needed some crispiness - I found it in the arctic char roe which is sparkling and not too sapid.
Fabio Pisani and Alessandro Negrini, co-chefs at Il Luogo di Aimo e Nadia in Milan on the stage of Identità Milano. With Danilo Giaffreda, author of this article, they gave life to a lesson focused on the records of our culinary tradition, the forerunners of many of today’s trends in international fine dining (photo Brambilla/Serrani)
Two weeks ago I was on the stage of the Auditorium at Identità Milano, speaking with Alessandro Negrini and Fabio Pisani, the two young chefs of Il Luogo di Aimo e Nadia. The pretext was the story of the historic restaurant in Milan, as seen through their perception. The – more ambitious – objective was to speak about Italy and the Italian restaurant scene starting from their experience.
The eleventh edition is scheduled from February 8th through 10th 2015
Risotto creamed with pumpkin, stir-fried porcini with thyme and a reduction of balsamic vinegar from Modena, an excellent first course by Roby Piccolin, chef at restaurant-pizzeria Ariston in Cortina d'Ampezzo, Belluno
Christian and Manuel: the two Costardi brothers for many years now have been the chefs of the Hotel Cinzia in Vercelli, a family business since four generations. They are obviously very familiar with rice, too. However, this year they were invited on stage at Identità di Pasta, during the Congress held in February in Milan. They also recently decided to put in their menu a Spaghettone with tomato and basil, which has a lot to share with one of their famous rice dishes (photo credit Brambilla/Serrani)
Sala Alessi was packed with people this morning for the presentation of "Il Mercato del Duomo", an ambitious project starting on April 30th, one day before the Expo. It is signed by Autogrill in collaboration with the Università di scienze gastronomiche in Pollenzo and Niko Romito Formazione. 5K square metres over 4 floors, a "cathedral dedicated to food culture". This morning, among others, Niko Romito, Marco Bolasco, Gilberto Benetton, Carlo Petrini and the mayor of Milan Pisapia spoke about it
Paolo Lopriore at the end of the farewell dinner at Kitchen in Como. To the left, his maître Stefano Gaiofatto, to the right, fisherman Simone Fraquelli
Sofia Pepe of the Emidio Pepe winery in Torano Nuovo (Teramo, Abruzzo) with Danilo Ingannamorte, maître and sommelier at Erba Brusca in Milan. An evening dedicated to Montepulciano and Trebbiano d’Abruzzo (photo by Francesca Bertani)
Sylvain Sendra, 37, one Michelin star, three restaurants. His career in the restaurant industry began at 24 with bistrot Le Temps au Temps
Enrico Crippa’s Orto d'inverno [Winter kitchen garden] was one of the dishes presented at Identità Milano, in a lesson the chef from Piazza Duomo in Alba dedicated almost entirely to vegetables. This is only one of the green inspirations we collect in this double article
This photo of Massimo Bottura is now a “classic”: on the stage of Identità Milano 2015 he spoke about recycling culture and the fight against waste. With this article in two episodes, we retrace some of the most significant “green” moments in the Congress dedicated to a "healthy intelligence"
Identità Milano, everyone’s talking about it
Crowded rooms, cameras, notebooks, focused journalists, concentrated bloggers, the world of food communication was literally mobilised: Identità Milano 2015 had an exceptional media impact
From Sri Lanka, a graduate in Criminology from Colombo University, he’s passionate about martial arts (the katana hanging in one of the rooms is his own) which when he was young led him to travel to Japan. Wicky Priyan opened his restaurant at the end of 2011 and soon conquered a rich number of passionate and faithful fans, who couldn’t wait to sit once again at one of his tables
Riccardo Orfino, on the right, in the kitchen of LadyBù. The young chef recently left the restaurant in Milan and starting in March he will be in New York, at Eataly, waiting for the opening of the new store on Ground Zero, where he will be assigned the kitchen of the fine dining restaurant
Pizza cooked with Scugnizzo
TheScugnizzo electric oven at Identità di Pizza 2015. Cristian Mastroianni, Franco Pepe’s collaborator, is handing the peel. The oven is produced by Izzo forni, a Neapolitan firm founded in 1951. Scugnizzo has the same performance as a wood oven, without its disadvantages
Rice and duck entrails, one of the most intense moments during the brunch designed by Paolo Lopriore, chef-patron at Kitchen, his restaurant inside the Grand Hotel di Como’s park, which has just reopened after the winter break
A panoramic view of the Auditorium hall during a lesson at Identità Golose 2015 when the theme, the leitmotiv, was A Healthy Intelligence. Photos and photo gallery are curated by Francesca Brambilla and Serena Serrani and their team, who work so well each year
From Western concert flute to cakes
Paola Ziliani, born in 1976, since June 2013 is the pastry chef at NuovaPasticceria Lady in San Secondo Parmense (via Garibaldi 37, tel. +39.0521.872388)