The new wind from Aponiente
A new location in Andalusia for Ángel León, chef del mar. A journey to the bottom of the sea
Spanish Ángel León greets from the new location of his restaurant Aponiente, at Molino de Mareas, opened last September in Calle Francisco Cossi Ochoa at El Puerto de Santa Maria, near Cádiz, Andalusia, tel. +34.956.851870. Behind the establishment, 2 Michelin stars, an edible journey across the mysteries of the abyss (photo from Pinterest)
Today we welcome, for the first time, an article from Gastroactitud, an important Spanish food news website, directed by José Carlos Capel and Julia Pérez, curators of the international congress Madrid Fusión. Every month, they write a report on one of the most interesting places in Iberia and beyond. We at Identità are doing the same on Gastroactitud: we’ve already published a first piece on The 5 most interesting new restaurants in Italy.
by Julia Pérez
| 26-11-2015 | 12:00 | Dal Mondo
Theres something about Pepe
The pizza chef from Caiazzo triumphs in California. Local media say: "The best pizza maker in the world"
Spaccas website, the establishment owned by Nancy Silverton, Mario Batali and Joe Bastianich, shows a large photo of the event that had Franco Pepe as its protagonist for nine days
With Hollywood just a stone’s throw away, this is the land of people acting as prima donnas. Yet Franco Pepe is almost daunted as he reads the Los Angeles Times defining him as “the best pizza maker in the world”: «Oh dear, they gave me such a welcome! Yet I wouldn’t like people to get jealous…». Of course, his diary, in the past few weeks, was that of a superstar: first in London with Identità Golose and Harrods. Then in the US, playing solo, nine days between Los Angeles and San Francisco, with six tasting events.
by Carlo Passera
| 25-11-2015 | Dal Mondo
The basics of an excellent sushi
In her recent book, Stefania Viti explains where you can find the best sushi and how to eat it
In this article Stefania Viti, an expert on Japan and Japanese cuisine, tells us all the secrets to recognise the best sushi and eat it in the best way
"Just like the Emperor is the symbol of its people, sushi is the symbol of Japanese cuisine. Italy was the last to discover it, but it could be the first to truly fall in love with it. And to transform it into a national dish". This is how journalist and Japanese expert Pio d'Emila starts his essay "Sua Maestà il Sushi", part of L'arte del sushi, a book I curated for Gribaudo.
by Stefania Viti
| 24-11-2015 | In libreria
Paris, one week later
Passerini, Tondo and Zillo: a wounded city, and its reaction, in the words of three chefs who are livening it up
We spoke with three chefs who now live in Paris, Giovanni Passerini, Simone Tondo and Mauricio Zillo, a few days after the tragedy that fell on Paris last Friday. We wanted to hear their impressions and ask them about the reaction of the Ville Lumière
«I was at home at the time. Which is 450 metres’ from the Belle Equipe, where unfortunately 18 people died», says Simone Tondo, from Sardinia, who arrived in Paris a few years ago, and conquered the city with his bistro Roseval, closed a few months ago. He’s speaking of the terrible night on 13th November. Giovanni Passerini, from Rome, has also been living in Paris for a few years now, and here, after the great success he got with Rino, he’s about to open a new restaurant, Céros. He was also at home: «I live right where the attacks took place: it basically happened between my home and where once was Rino».
by Niccolò Vecchia
| 20-11-2015 | Dal Mondo
Albereta = feeling good
Today we start our column on hotels with the portrait of a splendid estate in Franciacorta
A beautiful image of the estate hosting L'Albereta in Erbusco (Brescia), a famous Relais&Châteaux establishment owned by the Moretti’s, a family from Franciacorta very active in the building, hospitality and wine sectors. The structure includes 58 rooms and suites, Henri Chenot’s holistic treatments and a triple culinary offer signed by Fabio Abbattista
Sono passati poco più di 22 anni dal giorno in cui l’Albereta aprì per la prima volta le porte alla clientela, tra i vigneti della collina Bellavista, nel cuore della Franciacorta bresciana. Quel 23 settembre del 1993 forse nemmeno patron Vittorio Moretti, un industriale di ampie visioni, poteva immaginare che nemmeno un quarto di secolo dopo le camere si sarebbero sestuplicate, passando da 9 a 58 (di cui 9 suite e 11 junior suite), articolandosi in 5 edifici diversi.
by Gabriele Zanatta
| 23-11-2015 | Magic nights
Seven virtues... in just one dish
Chef Federica Scolta tells us about this traditional specialty from Abruzzo. With a classic version
Le 7 Virtù is a typical dish from Abruzzo with lots of variations (in this photo there’s also pasta). Federica Scolta, sous chef at Lord Bio in Macerata, tells us about this recipe in a classic version
«On 1st May we usually cook all sorts of legumes together, broad beans, beans, chickpeas, lentils and so on with vegetables and salted bones, ears and feet of pigs, also salted; and we call this soup Virtù...»: this is what Giuseppe Savini writes in Lessico del dialetto teramano. The chosen ingredients can vary greatly. Entering into the merits of the recipe is a complex thing: there are numerous variations. Here below we present one of the possible ones. Let’s first list the basic ingredients, though.
by Federica Scolta
| 22-11-2015 | Signature Dishes
Theres a turning point at Al Mercato
A new classic approach for the more avantgarde Milan. Roncoroni: the reasons behind this change
Eugenio Roncoroni conversing with sommelier Giacomo Gironi (photo Aromicreativi)
Someone who’s more expert than the author of this piece will perhaps find the reason: still it is sure in fine dining we are experiencing, in parallel with a now established trend towards creativity, an opposite trend too, a sort of return to tradition. A special classic-approach updated following the criteria of the new millennium. These were thoughts we had at the end of a memorable dinner at Al Mercato, that is to say in the restaurant that more than any other – perhaps with some exaggeration too – has formed the advanced frontline of Milan’s avantgarde.
by Carlo Passera
| 19-11-2015 | Carlo Mangio
Visiting the alchemist-cheese producer
A meeting with Marco Bernini, a wild life. Today chefs are crazy for his blue cheese
"Erica blu", a Stilton-style blue cheese produced by Marco Bernini in his farm La Cavarchella, Via Ca dAndrino 6, Pozzol Groppo (Al), email@example.com (photo Passera)
Is it true? On the Internet, an increasing number of stories turning up one’s nose are appearing, illustrating the incredible story of a man: a successful photographer in trendy Milan, a hunter in Kazakhstan, a mechanic, a chimpanzee-man perched on a tree for two weeks to take pictures of animals, a crafts beer salesman in community centres, with a non-legal warehouse but defended by gypsies from local officers. And then: a mould stealer, with swabs scattered around dairy farms and grottos, mister-adrenalin, satisfied with two hours of sleep per night, a nervy follower of the Paris-Dakar, a self-taught researcher of the methods used by Trappist monks.
by Carlo Passera
| 18-11-2015 | Carlo Mangio
Pairing is in ferment
Chef André Chiang, from Singapore, number 5 in Asia, experiments with new, original food pairings
André Chiang, considered the chef number 5 in Asia, works with juices and fermentations to create new pairings with food
From Gastronomika 2015, the Basque fine dining congress that ended little over a month ago in Donostia-San Sebastián, we told you about “The new frontiers in cooking” according to the Roca brothers, using these words: “Rotaval is the focus of the interest of los tres hermanos. Jordi the pastry chef extracts aromas for his desserts. Josep distillates alcohol, «we want to create all sorts of possible drinks», says Joan. The latter, instead, obtains impossible to imagine aromas, that open new frontiers for cooking, «we’re entering a beautiful world». (…) Using herbs and fruits to create new pairings with specific dishes, «we’re exploring the boundaries of maridaje as never done before»…”.
by Carlo Passera
| 17-11-2015 | Dal Mondo
Eating good boiled meat in Milan
One of the big classics in winter cuisine: heres where to find it in Milan (and nearby)
Bollito Misto [Mixed boiled meat] is perhaps not the most photogenic dish you could think of. It certainly is a delicacy a gourmand can hardly resist: in this article, food-lovers can find eight restaurants in Milan that are a sure hit
In these days, perhaps not many have thought with sincere and genuine desire about the merry and clattering arrival of the mythical boiled meat cart. This pillar in Piedmontese tradition, adopted by most of Northern Italy, in these peculiarly hot November days perhaps hasn’t found the perfect climate to regain its role in the offer of our restaurants. Yet while we wait for the cold winds to numb us sufficiently, we can start to prepare...
by Niccolò Vecchia
| 16-11-2015 | Fuori Expo