Identità New York 2014
The fifth edition is scheduled from Thursday, October 9th - Sunday, October 12th at Eataly NYRead more
Identità Milano 2015
A healthy intelligence
The eleventh edition is scheduled from February 8th through 10th 2015
Israel, a mosaic of aromas
The many flavours of Israeli cuisine: we’re in Jerusalem, at Azura, connected with Slow Food Israel (4 Ha'eshkol street, +972.2.6235204)
Israel can consider developing a haute cuisine, as we recalled here, counting also on a food sector offering excellent products. The markets in the main centres – Jerusalem, Haifa and Tel Aviv – are magical places overflowing with delicious food. If you happen to visit the latter city, a visit to Jaffa is a must.
Victoire Gouloubi began to cook at home, when she was still in Congo, yet it was the studies and experience acquired in Italy that transformed her into a chef. She opened her own restaurant early in 2014: it’s called Victoire and is located in Milan, in Via Accademia 56, tel. +39.02.2615430
Victoire Gouloubi was born in Brazzaville, Congo, in 1981. In Italy, on top of work, she found a husband and a happy life. A happiness that is also due to the fact she has accomplished her dream of opening her own restaurant in Milan, simply called Victoire. Her food is in fact very Italian, and this is also because she grew up, as a chef, in our country, yet the aromas of her home country often peek in her dishes.
A souvenir photo with the chefs participating in the conference presenting Oceana’s project. They met on the most beautiful beach in San Sebastian on the morning of 17th March. Left to right: Ashley Palmer-Watts, José Luis Gonzàlez, Normand Laprise, Rodolfo Guzmàn, Joan Roca, Elena Arzak, Joachim Wissler, Ferran Adrià, Gaston Acurio, Grant Achatz, Heinz Reitbauer, Brett Graham, Daniel Humm, Massimo Bottura, Enrique Olvera, Pedro Subijana, Andoni Luiz Aduriz and Alex Atala
The idea is one that makes you jump from back to feet, Save the Oceans: feed the world in the words of Oceana, the foundation in Washington promoting it. Oceana, 2001, with Andrew Sharpless at its head since 2003 – in the spring of 2013 he was the author of The perfect protein, a book that is now once again in the limelight thanks to the event launched in mid-March in San Sebastian, Spain.
An info that is hardly negligible: Oceana is the largest organisation for the safeguard of the sea, it controls as many as
Tel Aviv, the taste of peace
Group photo with the creative chefs from Tel Aviv participating in Open Restaurants
«Israel surrounds Tel Aviv. If Israel will be better, Tel Aviv will be great» says Oren Schnabel while smiling and joking. In the country’s third city there’s a damn strong desire to overcome historical problems and religious fanaticism. Tensions appear distant, you can enjoy a sort of dolce vita capable of attracting many of our young fellow countrymen. «We are very happy here», says Fabiana Magri, from Genoa, now project manager at Colorfood, a project that puts together a chef, a photographer and a stylist, all created by Dan Lev: they will also be at Expo 2015 with crossovers of art and food involving great Italian chefs.
Little over a month and we will be able to discover them all, one by one. In the next days, however, there will be many previews of the pavilions dedicated to the countries participating in Expo Milano 2015, and we will do our best to report on them. We start with Spain and Japan, which last week began to unveil the culinary projects and the sites dedicated to the World Fair.
Enrico Crippa, chef at Piazza Duomo, 3 Michelin stars. Behind him, Walter Danusso, farmer in the Langhe. From the vegetable garden they tend to, right outside Barolo, comes a large part of the vegetables, fruits and herbs that are served at the 3 Michelin star restaurant in Alba (Cuneo) and in the restaurant below (photos in this article are by Brambilla/Serrani, translation by Slawka G. Scarso)
Oggi è il solstizio di primavera e non potremmo festeggiarlo in un posto migliore.
Marchesi’s 85 candles
Identità Milano 2007: Gualtiero Marchesi receives the homage of Pierre Troisgros
Gualtiero Marchesi turns 85 today, that is to say around 745 thousand hours of life. He spent two of these, last Tuesday, with us, sitting at a table at his Marchesino in Milan. Gracious, open. With a strong desire to tell his story. One of the projects that is most dear to him, is a retirement home for cooks, to be created next to Alma, the International School of Cuisine of which he’s the dean: yet he oozes life and ideas, it’s still early to see him strolling in the gardens of Colorno’s palace, even though he feels this prospect is all but disagreeable: «The great chefs of the past next to the students. It would be magnificent».
Creating means not copying
On the occasion of his birthday, Gualtiero gives a present himself: a decalogue for the contemporary cook
Gualtiero Marchesi portrayed by Luisa Valieri inside Marchesino, the restaurant next to Teatro alla Scala in Milan
Ottantacinque anni oggi, auguri Gualtiero. Noi di Identità li festeggiamo qui nel sito con due articoli e in rete con un numero speciale della newsletter. A Carlo Passera il piacere di dialogare con il maestro, a me di riprendere il Decalogo del cuoco (e non dello chef) che Marchesi ha pubblicato a inizio marzo. Di particolare importanza l’esortazione finale, in pratica il punto 11, il più importante visto che Marchesi ha cambiato la cucina italiana: “Creare è: NON COPIARE”!.
Sapete cosa accomunerà domani, giovedì 19 marzo, Heinz Beck, Chicco Cerea, Nadia e Giovanni Santini, Andrea Berton, Giancarlo Perbellini, Andrea Fusco, Anthony Genovese, Roy Caceres, Angelo Troiani, Davide Scabin, Claudio Sadler, Danilo Ciavattini, Cristina Bowerman, Davide Oldani, Simone Rugiati, Valentino Marcattilii, Stefano Marzetti, Matteo Baronetto e Gennaro Esposito? Assieme a un’ottantina di loro colleghi italiani celebreranno la grandezza della cucina francese. Nessun errore: la cucina francese e nemmeno quella più attuale, perché Goût de France è grandeur allo stato puro, il voler ribadire che...
The eleventh edition is scheduled from February 8th through 10th 2015
Tickets and Pakta, unlimited flavours
Albert Adrià (full name: Albert Adrià Acosta, hence the triple stylised “A” in his logo) is the soul of the restaurants grouped under the Bcn5.0 “umbrella”. We visited three of them, the main ones: two unforgettable meals, and a disappointing one
The new life of the Adrià brothers
Ferran and Albert Adrià portrayed in Inspiring Chefs, the photographic project signed last year by Martin Schoellerfor Lavazza. A prophetic image: the Adrià are about to open a place in Ibiza which will blend food and entertainment, together with the Cirque du Soleil
Tomorrow, at the Basque Culinary Centre in San Sebastian, some of the greatest chefs in the world will meet to support Oceana’s campaign “Save the Oceans: Feed the World”. Overfishing is emptying the seas, with serious repercussions on the possibility to feed the world’s population (photo Steve DeNeef)
Davide Oldani, chef at D'O in Cornaredo, Milan, teaching at HEC in Paris, a sort of Bocconi in the Ville Lumière (the best Business school in Europe according to the Financial Times). He illustrated the D'O case-study and the concept of Pop Cuisine, after he did the same one year and a half ago at Harvard. In October he will open Food, a restaurant in Manila, in the Philippines, and in a few weeks time he will unveil the details of his new great restaurant in Cornaredo
Margaret Xu outside Yin Yang, her restaurant in Hong Kong, a small white house on the beach, capable of giving new lymph to traditional Cantonese cuisine. Her passion for the vegetable garden was such that it generated a small organic farm, supplying the entire restaurant
In a Brambilla/Serrani picture from Identità Milano 2015, Vitantonio Lombardo, chef and owner of the Locanda Severino in Caggiano: the last village in Campania right before Basilicata, in the province of Salerno. Using Sonia Gioia's words, "A chef who's a little bit crazy and a little bit titanic, who decided to remain in the place he was born in"
Giulia Fidone, in a photo taken on the stage of Identità Milano 2015 during "Il signore non è servito", a show put on by association Noi di sala, with actor Marco Giallini as the protagonist. Giulia works in the dining room at Jardin de Russie, inside the Hotel de Russie in Via del Babuino in Rome
The alliance of women in the food sector
The Parabere Forum took place in Bilbao. There were many Italian representatives, including Cristina Bowerman whom we asked to write about it
39-year-old Canadian chef Daniel Burns of restaurant Luksus at Thorst, a bistro seating 26 people included in a beer bar in Greenpoint, Brooklyn, New York, one Michelin star without having a single wine in the list. "Why beer?", he explained during his lesson at Identità Milano, "why not?" (photo credits Brambilla/Serrani)
Knowledge for training
Roman Enrico Camelio, born in 1971, with his guys at Majestic. He’s a teacher at the Pellegrino Artusi Catering School in Rome and a fine dining consultant
A wall of photographers and journalists, this is what the Minister for Agricultural Policies Maurizio Martina faced at the end of the first Forum della Cucina Italiana which took place on Monday 2nd March in the headquarters of the Ministry for Agricultural Resources in Rome
Tokuyoshi, no ifs, ands and buts
The protagonist of one of the most awaited debuts in Milan, Yoji Tokuyoshi, previously Massimo Bottura’s second, who opened his restaurant (Via San Calocero 3, tel.) in the same rooms where Wicky Priyan’s Wicky's was once located
Carlo Cracco and Massimo Bottura fold out the Italian flag at the super-lunch held at Harrods in London on 28th April 2013 when seven Italian chefs gave life to what the English called The Lunch of a Lifetime