Fontegro, Kiev calls to the world
In Ukraine, 2nd edition of an event that aims at focusing the attention to a cuisine taking its first steps
A souvenir photo, last 3rd of February, at the end of the second and final day at Fontegro 2016 in Kiev. Left to right, Franco Aliberti, Slovenian Ana Ros, one of the organizers Ekaterina Avdeyeva, then Cristina Bowerman, the other curator of the congress Anna Zelenokhat, and finally Davide Scabin are smiling happily. See you in 2017
Being used to the lights and glitter of the Western restaurant scene, spending three days in Kiev, the capital of tormented Ukraine, can only do good to the great Italian and European chefs and restaurateurs, but also to those from Hong Kong, Tokyo and Singapore as well as New York, Chicago and California. The opportunity was given early in February by the second edition of Fontegro, the culinary congress organised by Ekaterina Avdeyeva and Anna Zelenokhat in the Olympic stadium where Dinamo Kiev, a football legend, plays.
by Paolo Marchi
| 10-02-2016 | 12:00 | Affari di Gola di Paolo Marchi
Made in California, Italy
Maico Campilongo explains how he supplies his restaurant in Palo Alto with excellent Italian-American products
Maico Campilongo, right, with Apulian chef Krystian D'Angelo. Together with Maico’s brother Franco, they are the ones behind the success story of restaurant-pizzeria Terún in Palo Alto, California
What can you do if you have an Italian restaurant in Palo Alto, California, and some foods such as salami from Calabria can’t be imported from Italy, for some obscure reasons? Or what can you do if you want a locally produced mozzarella in the States? Let’s start from an article from 2006 on the Los Angeles Times. It basically said: you probably have never heard of Vito Girardi, but perhaps you’ve swooned in front of his cheese. He’s the man who introduced burrata to America.
by Maico Campilongo
| 09-02-2016 | 09:00 | Dal Mondo
Joop, the great oil in Tokyo
Registrations are open for the 2016 edition in June. Italian products have always had a main role
A few bottles (most were Italian) that were under the spotlight and won the third edition of Joop - Japan Olive Oil Prize, promoted in Tokyo by the Italian Chamber of Commerce in Japan (Iccj). The fourth edition will take place in June 2016, registrations are open
The best oil – that is to say the Italian one – will have the main role in Japan. The Italian Chamber of Commerce in Japan (Iccj) presents the fourth edition of Joop, the Japan Olive Oil Prize, which is to take place in Tokyo in June 2016. The contest’s objective is to reward the best extra virgin olive oil in Japan regardless of where it comes from, stimulating and promoting the commitment of the companies that work to constantly improve the quality of their products, promoting them through focused activities with public and private institutions, trade professionals as well as private consumers.
by Carlo Passera
| 08-02-2016 | Dal Mondo
The real issue is the pizza chef
A test made in Naples: wood or electricity, the flavour doesn’t change. But with mediocre chefs no oven can help
On Tuesday 26th January 2016 in Naples, Guglielmo Vuolo's pizzeria inside Eccellenze Campane hosted a confrontation between pizzas cooked in very different ovens. The two on the left, both black, are the typical wood ovens, to the right, instead, there's an electric oven called Scugnizzonapoletano, offering the same performance as a traditional one despite being open in front
It’s easy to measure the depth of an event: no notes mean failure, two full notebooks are a success. The latter is the case of Pizza forma mentis, on Monday and Tuesday 25th and 26th at Palazzo Caracciolo in Naples. The topic was The future of Neapolitan pizza: wood, gas or electric oven? Organized by Formamentis, a training and consultancy firm from Battipaglia (Salerno), together with Luciano Pignataro WineBlog, LSDM aka Barbara Guerra and Albert Sapere, and Maurizio Cortese’s Corteseway, it resulted in discussions that went much beyond the issue of the oven per se. And ended up with twenty people meeting yesterday at lunchtime at Eccellenze Campane, with margherita and marinara pizzas baked in wood or electric ovens, while the gas remained in the title. It was a very lively and nice epilogue, a sincere moment of conviviality and truth as well.
by Paolo Marchi
| 07-02-2016 | 17:00 | Mondo pizza
2016 dish by dish (6)
Abruzzo, Molise, Apulia, Basilicata and Calabria: 33 dishes/a journey through the great restaurants of the South
by Carlo Passera e Gabriele Zanatta
| 05-02-2016 | Primo piano
Face to face with Matthew Kenney
Cristina Bowerman’s interview with the father of raw cuisine. A much awaited lesson in Milan
Matthew Kenney, from Connecticut, 51. Chef, author and trainer, he’s the father of raw and vegan cuisine. He wrote 12 books, founded 5 culinary academies. "Making health and great food coexist is something everyone can do", he explained to Cristina Bowerman, for once in the role of interviewer. Kenney will hold a lesson in the Auditorium hall at Identità Milano on Monday 7th March, at 4.30 pm
I am lucky. For many, many reasons and one of them is that I often get the opportunity to meet great chefs. And great chefs always have amazing, engaging personalities. Great chefs always bring something "different”: you just have to dig a little. Just the other day, I was sitting at a table with Ciccio Sultano, Corrado Assenza and Accursio Craparo and each of them had something special to share, like a memory, a flavour, a dish. And every time, I steal a little of their passion and make it mine.
by Cristina Bowerman
| 05-02-2016 | Primo piano
Chefs’ mal de vivre
Benoît Violier’s suicide is only the latest in a series after Vatel, Loiseau and Franco Colombani
French-Swiss chef Benoît Violier took his life yesterday, on 31st January 2016, using a firearm in his home in Crissier, in the district of Lausanne, in Switzerland. Aged 44, three Michelin stars at Hotel de Ville also in Crissier, in July 2015 he took over after another great chef, Philippe Rochat, was betrayed by his heart as while cycling. It’s the latest in a series of suicides among chefs, after French François Vatel, Bernard Loiseau, Pierre Jaubert and Italians Franco Colombani and Sauro Brunicardi (photo credits Parismatch)
Si rimane sempre sgomenti davanti alla notizia di un suicidio, soprattutto se all'apparenza chi si toglie la vita aveva tutto come adesso Benoit Violier, 44 anni e tre stelle Michelin all'Hotel de Ville a Crissier vicino Losanna, Svizzera dunque. A luglio 2015 aveva preso il posto di un altro grande, Philippe Rochat, tradito dal cuore mentre andava in bici. Oggi, lunedì 2 febbraio, era atteso alla presentazione dell'edizione francese della Michelin. La notizia che si sia sparato nella sua casa sovrasta qualsiasi attesa per la nuova edizione della rossa.
by Paolo Marchi
| 01-02-2016 | Primo piano
The Post-avantgarde Manifesto
Concepts and scope of the new culinary current explained by one of its theorisers, Quico Sosa
Quico Sosa, culinary thinker, one of the most prominent in the last twenty years, explained the concept of post-avantgarde, the culinary movement of which he was one of the theorisers, on the stage of Madrid Fusión. Here is his piece for Identità Golose, after we had already written about him in our news
Against a nominal approach – They say that a name is not the substance of an object but allows interpreting it. All the names of the cultural movements that characterise cuisine are not original but draw from more popular definitions, or definitions we think fit best. Others, however, can be used with no issues.
by Quico Sosa
| 31-01-2016 | Dal Mondo
My take on sustainability
Norbert Niederkofler shares his thoughts a few days after the first edition of Care's
Care’s, “the ethical chef days”, a new (sustainable) fine dining event wanted by Norbert Niederkofler, of St Hubertus at Rosa Alpina in San Cassiano, ended on 20th January. As reported by Carlo Passera (here and here), it was born with the goal of offering a new perspective on cuisine
Sustainability in the kitchen is a theme I hold very dear. And from this interest, this passion, the idea of Care's was born, the first edition of which took place this year, only a few days ago. It was a sort of pilot edition.
by Norbert Niederkofler
| 29-01-2016 | 12:00 | Dall'Italia
2016 dish by dish (5)
Fifty dishes from as many chefs, defining the heavenly state of Lazio and Campania
Quinta puntata dell'inchiesta di Identità Golose sui piatti d'autore del 2016. Dopo Piemonte, Valle d'Aosta e Liguria, Lombardia e Milano, Triveneto ed Emilia Romagna/Toscana/Marche e Umbria, è la volta di Lazio e Campania. Domani è la volta di Abruzzo, Puglia, Basilicata e Calabria
Today’s post is entirely dedicated to two important regions in the geography and culinary scene of the southern part of Central Italy, namely Lazio and Campania. These outposts on the Tyrrhenian Sea are blessed by climate and great products from sea and land. In the creations of their great chefs (Gennaro Esposito, Heinz Beck, Cristina Bowerman, brothers Serva, Anthony Genovese, Francesco Apreda, Francesco Sposito, Marianna Vitale, Ernesto Iaccarino, Paolo Barrale...) and emerging ones (Alba Esteve Ruiz, Marco Baccanelli and Francesca Barreca, Davide Del Duca, Luciano Monosilio, Pasquale Palamaro, Salvatore Bianco, Lorenzo Cuomo, Cristian Torsiello...) dishes made with durum wheat pasta and first courses in general prevail.
by Carlo Passera e Gabriele Zanatta
| 30-01-2016 | 12:00 | Primo piano