Lima, first stop at the market
In order to understand Peruvian taste, one should visit the one in Surquillo, with lots of quality and gritty Erica
Erica, the owner of the best ceviche stand inside the Surquillo market in Lima
Food markets are an excellent starting point when discoverinf a city you don’t know and Lima counts 9.5 million registered inhabitants, plus a couple more that elude controls. You need to start somewhere. One imperative: avoid the polished and almost anaesthetised touristic places. As long as you have a guide who knows his stuff. The Marriott hotel in Miraflores where I’m staying is next to the border between the posh neighbourhood of Miraflores and the less respectable Surquillo, though it’s not as bad as it used to be.
by Paolo Marchi
Peru, charming biodiversity
Lima, capital of a country with 2,700 different potatoes, hosts the Global Forum on Gastro Tourism
Those arriving these days at Lima’s international airport, in the great baggage reclaim area will only find posters presenting the Global Forum on Gastronomy Tourism scheduled from the 27th till the 29th April in the Peruvian capital
An invitation, a yes and here I am now in Lima, in front of the Pacific Ocean, after a trip via Amsterdam, on Monday 25th, that looked endless because I hadn’t paid too much attention to the details, except for the time of departure and arrival. The invitation came from the Basque Culinary Center in San Sebastian which, together with the World Tourism Organization and with PromPerù, organised the Global Forum on Gastronomy Tourism, three days of works from the 27th till the 29th April. I’m curious to find out how many other Italians will be there. It looks like none will be on stage, and at least one will be in the audience.
by Paolo Marchi
On a carriage at Yam'Tcha
Cristina Bowerman take us to Chi Wahs and Adelines restaurant in Paris. A journey between East and West
Chi Wah Chan from Hong Kong and French Adeline Grattard, husband and wife. Respectively maître/ tea sommelier and chef, have opened Yam'Tcha in 2009 in the Les Halles area, in Paris. It’s so successful you need to reserve long in advance (photo from Pinterest)
Parigi è una di quelle città che non mi stanco mai di visitare. Anche solo due giorni nella Ville Lumière mi riempiono di idee, di bellezza, di stimoli, mi rilassano. Opere d'arte, mostre, palazzi da visitare, passeggiate, ma soprattutto non mancano (e non possono mancare!) le visite ai ristoranti, questa volta Frenchie, Issé, Des idées et des amis, ma la cena indimenticabile è stata dalla chef Adeline Grattard, al ristorante Yam'tcha.
by Cristina Bowerman
Cannavacciuolo, the motivator
After the show at the Stadio Olimpico, the chef tells us about this new dimension of his. Between stove and training
Antonino Cannavacciuolo, patron at Villa Crespi in Orta San Giulio (Novara), 2 Michelin stars, portrayed last 19th April at the Stadio Olimpico in Rome. The chef from Vico Equense, born in 1975, founded the Cannavacciuolo Academy, a training firm that teaches aspiring cooks how to become “perfect restaurateurs" (photo by Carlo Lannutti for cucina.corriere.it)
You should have already read the news: last 19th April Antonino Cannavacciuolo, chef at Villa Crespi and very popular on television, held a lesson at the Stadio Olimpico in Rome. Not the classic cooking lecture but an 8-hour culinary-training-motivational show, capable of attracting an audience of 1,400 swooning people to the Tribuna Monte Mario, willing to spend 97 euros (full price ticket), with peaks of 247 (for the “VIP experience”: seat in the first row, lunch break and selfie with the chef) and 35 euros (student concession).
by Gabriele Zanatta
The new Artusi? Based on food waste
Botturas appearance at Centomani: his anti-waste recipe book and then Refettori, Unesco, smart land...
Massimo Bottura’s speech at Centomani di questa terra, in Polesine Parmense. With him on stage, Caterina Fabbro, fundraiser at Antoniano Onlus, and Cristina Reni of Food for Soul
The best at Centomani di questa terra, the event created by CheftoChef – the association of the best chefs in Emilia Romagna, which took place at Antica Corte Pallavicina, which on the occasion had a beautiful spring atmosphere.
by Carlo Passera
Bordeaux 2015: plenty of emotions
Châteaux and great wines under the spotlight in Bordeaux. A city renovated thanks to the Citè du Vin
The new and beautiful Citè du Vin in Bordeaux, entirely dedicated to wine culture
Almost everyone immediately associates the city of Bordaux to wine, it’s an important point of reference in global oenology, as high quality wine has been produced here for over 300 years. It’s a modern city, in the Unesco world heritage list since 2007, it has the airport of Aquitaine, with rivers and nature transforming the region into a fairy-tale place, also characterised by a culinary rebirth.
by Cinzia Benzi
Earth Day 2016
We celebrate the day dedicated to our planet with an anti-waste challenge
Yesterday was Earth Day 2016, the greatest environmental event on the planet. We can all contribute in our own small way and not only on this day (the photo is taken from “Inside chefs’ fridges, Europe”, Taschen with photos of Massimo Bottura, Hélène Darroze e Magnus Nilsson’s fridges)
All around the world meetings and workshops took place yesterday to speak and educate about sustainability and celebrate the Earth Day. Yesterday the ceremony for the signing of the COP21 Paris Agreement against environmental changes also took place. Most consumers don’t have particularly strong feelings about this theme or others connected with sustainability and finding the right approach to speak about this is not always easy. To avoid useless awareness actions or even worse counterproductive ones, it’s best to stay concrete and focus one’s efforts on actions that can be easily appreciated, not only from an environmental point of view, and better if with a playful rather than moralising approach.
by Lisa Casali
Sweden swindles our margherita
Stockholm is to award Sweden's Best Pizza. Lets take comfort with the 16 best pizzerias in Naples
Do not start to laugh, both out of respect for the people and the meaning of the event. On 26th and 27th April in Stockholm there will be, within GastroNord and Vinordic, basically Sweden’s Cibus and Vinitaly, the academy awards for Sweden’s Best Pizza. Distance between Stockholm and Naples? 2749 km, according to ViaMichelin; lowered to 2074 as the crow flows.
Not the United States, where they even believe they invented it, so much so they recently codified the various pizza styles in each metropolis, to find out more...
by Paolo Marchi
David Chang of Momofuku announces: stop banning taking pictures of the dishes. A growing trend
There’s been a turnabout, especially in the Anglo-Saxon gourmet scene, where many prestigious restaurants forbade guests to take pictures of their dishes: the capitulation to Instagram seems inevitable. The most famous and recent case is that of David Chang, who was one of the first to say enough at Momofuku Ko
There’s a small viral video which for some time has been appearing in social network timelines, with which, often enough, we spend time publishing frivolous things (too). It shows three Afro-Americans enter a fast-food, order three sandwiches and... when it’s time to eat two of them look at the third one severely as he bites his burger before taking a picture. It’s an excellent emblem of how the idiosyncrasy of photographing anything served on our table is now global, pervasive, and goes far beyond...
by Niccolò Vecchia
We must be invisible actors
Vanessa Melis of Pascucci al Porticciolo: the dining room service must be present without appearing
Vanessa Melis of Pascucci al Porticciolo also contributed to our debate on the dining room
My passion for the dining room certainly dates back to my childhood, when one could already notice, so my parents say, an inclination to take care of the table on every occasion the family met. I would take care of the mise en place, starting from the tablecloth, strictly linen, the choice of plates, glasses, cutlery and, to finish, the selection of flowers that would give the guests a sense of pleasure and well being. Since I was a child I was always stimulated by traditional aromas and flavours, thanks to my grandmothers who were very good cooks. Laura, originally from Rome, was good at cooking fish; Dora was instead excellent with fresh pasta, also thanks to her origins from the Marche. Such lovely memories, flavours, emotions!
by Vanessa Melis
Klugmann, Wild Strawberries
At Le Strade della mozzarella, the chef takes on the infamous strawberry risotto. While Scabin...
La rivoluzione spagnola? Snacks
In Milan, a documentary showing how Iberian chefs changed cuisine
Breakfast at Casadonna
A careful analysis of the magnificent morning ritual at Niko Romitos, a real tasting menu
This is how the table looks in the morning in the breakfast room at Casadonna in Castel di Sangro (L'Aquila). The team directed by Niko Romito pays lots of attention to the first meal of the morning with a rich, intelligent offer with the best local products
Oldani and D'O are ready to surprise
In two weeks time, reservations will be open at the new restaurant. Also in Cornaredo. It will be 5 times as big
The first thing Davide Oldani showed with pride, as soon as we entered the new location for his restaurant, which will be called simply D'O, no longer D'O La tradizione in cucina, was the new kitchen. It couldn’t be otherwise. For a cook the place housing ovens and stoves is the heart of a restaurant
Gourmands and vegetarian cuisine: heres where to eat
The offer continues to grow in Italy too. Heres our list of the best places
One of the many beautiful creations by Pietro Leemann, who with his Joia in Milan is the first and only vegetarian chef to conquer a Michelin star in Italy. His work, together with a different and stronger awareness the public acquired over the past few years, gave the opportunity to many other cooks to make natural cuisine grow in our country too
Neolokal, Turkish delight
In Istanbul, Maksut Aşkars restaurant, a journey across the flavours of Anatolia between past and future
The dining room at Neolokal, on Karaköy’s Bankalar in Istanbul, Turkey. Maksut Aşkar’s restaurant, telephone +90.212.2440016 charmed Italian colleague Cristina Bowerman, author of this piece
René Redzepi: my Australia
All that happened at Copenhagen's Noma during its move to the land of kangaroos
For René Redzepi the ten weeks in Australia have been an extraordinary kaleidoscope of new aromas, scents, ingredients. Here's Valeria Senigaglia report for Identità Golose
An Italian is already at Bocuse
Giovanna Grossi will represent South America in the finals in 2017. But shes originally from the Marche
Giovanna Grossi, talented chef from Brazil, aged 24, won the Bocuse d'Or finals in South America
These rigatoni are raw
Cristina Bowerman, with the help of researchers, is experimenting the use of (tasty) un-cooked pasta
The dish Cristina Bowerman presented at Identità di Pasta: rigatoni filled with ricotta, herb coulis, herb caviar and fried herbs. The peculiarity is the fact the rigatoni are not cooked, but left in infusion for many hours and then quickly warmed up. Yet they are perfect on the palate: a new road the chef has decided to analyse
To the service of the ambassador
An interview with Danilo Cortellini, an italian in London: he runs our embassy's kitchen
Born in Abruzzo, in his early thirties, Danilo Cortellini conquered a prestigious stage for his cuisine: since 2012 he's the head chef of the italian embassy in London
A training ground for the dining room, in memory of Frank
Giuseppe Palmieri explains his project, in honour of Rizzuti. He will present it at Arrabbiatissima
Dining room and kitchen on the same level. And a "training ground" so as to make it possible for the former to rise to the level of the latter, which in Italy is of the highest standard. This is the message Giuseppe Palmieri is to send during Arrabbiatissima, the festival scheduled in Modena on Sunday 3rd April. Here’s a preview for Identità Golose
Hurray for the chef who changes the world
The director of the Basque Culinary Center at Identità: 100K euros for the best development project
The chefs in the jury of the Basque Culinary World Prize. They will assign 100K to the colleague who will stand out thanks to a project to develop his or her community. From the top left corner, René Redzepi, Massimo Bottura, Heston Blumenthal, jury president Joan Roca (Spain), Yukio Hattori, Alex Atala, Ferran Adrià, Gastón Acurio, Enrique Olvera, Dan Barber, Michel Bras. In order to decide the winner, the jury will count on the consultancy of experts in subjects connected with gastronomy such as Harold McGee, Massimo Montanari, Laura Esquivel, Hilal Elver
Zuma, the secret of success
Chef Becker and Japan: «I cook what I like, with elegance but without formalism»
The Rib eye steak with wafu sauce and garlic crisps, here in the photo by John Carey, is one of Rainer Becker’s signature dishes, which of course he also offers at the Zuma restaurant he’s just opened in Rome
Becker, the king living in the shade
The German chef has just opened the tenth Zuma at Fendis in Rome, yet success hasnt changed him
Rainer Becker, originally from Germany with lots of experience in Australia and Japan before arriving in London in 2000 and opening two years later the first of ten Zuma restaurants, one of which has just opened in Rome, offering Japanese cuisine. In the photo, Rainer with Massimiliano Blasone, the chef who’ll the Roman establishment
All the numbers from Identità Milano
The 2016 congress was the most communicated ever. Marchi-Ceroni: with us, Italian cuisine grows
The (almost) final numbers of the latest edition of Identità Milano are flattering. We call them “almost” because Identità is a source of articles and features for many months after the event: basically till the following edition