There’s a big ferment in the kitchen
From Aichi, the cradle of Japanese fermented food, to Italy: this is how our gastronomic culture can be enriched
The traditional production of miso at Maruya Haccho Miso: the firm was established in 1337. Soy and salt – said patron Asai Nobutaro in Milan – go in these wood barrels with a 2-metre diameter, on top of which they place 400-500 stones, a total of 3 tons. They are then left to ferment for two years
«Putting aside chefs as deus ex machina, fermentation is based on respect and collaboration between man and nature, a profound and marvellous concept». At Identità Golose we think highly of Cristina Bowerman; this is why I thought it right to read once again a beautiful article she wrote for us two and a half years ago, and start from these very words of hers today’s piece on fermentation, after the nice symposium the prefecture of Aichi decided to dedicate to this theme.
by Carlo Passera
| 26-08-2015 | Fuori Expo
Ten questions for a perfect dining room service
Enrico Camelio answers the FAQs on high quality service. The result is a sort of decalogue
For many chefs the dining room service is the main problem in today’s fine dining. How can you train professionals capable of working well in fine dining restaurants? Enrico Camelio tries to answer this question
I’ve asked myself what I believe are the ten main questions regarding the following general issue: how can one have a high quality service in a fine dining restaurant? Here are my answers.
by Enrico Camelio
| 25-08-2015 | In sala
What world would it be without umami
A summit in Milan legitimized the fifth flavour: which has no borders in space or time
A group photo at the end of the umami summit in Milan: left to right Luca Fantin, Laura Santtini, Ito Masatoshi (chairman at Ajinomoto), Yuko Hayashi (the wife of the Japanese minister for agriculture, Masatoshi Hayashi),Gabriella Morini, Kumiko Ninomiya, Nobuyuki Matsuhisa, Yoshihiro Murata and Stefania Viti
Yoshihiro Murata, of the famous Kikunoi in Kyoto tells of how he met umami in a sort of matambre he tasted in the Amazon forest. Laura Santtini, of restaurant Santini in London adds it can also be found in English marmite. Kumiko Ninomiya, director of the Japanese Umami Information Center, underlines how it abounded in ancient Romans’ garum.
by Carlo Passera
| 24-08-2015 | 12:00 | Fuori Expo
Nature, technology, beer. The European republic offers fun and solace in its pavilion
A night view of the entrance to the pavilion of the Czech Republic, with the swimming pool, the bar and the large sculpture purifying the water in the fountain
It’s easy to locate the pavilion of the Czech Republic at Expo 2015. It is characterised by a large swimming pool right in front of the entrance and an imposing, half machine, half bird sculpture. This work doesn’t just have an aesthetic value, it also has a meaning: it is a symbol of the country’s capacity to make nature and technological innovation meet, an extremely focal theme in the entire Czech exhibition area.
by Niccolò Vecchia
| 22-08-2015 | Tutto Expo
Cuisine according to Elena
Arzak, in the Spanish pavilion at Expo, explains her restaurant concept. We sum it up in this decalogue
Elena and Juan Marì Arzak in their “Banco de Sabores” (photo by Coconut)
«An entire World Fair dedicated to food: what else could you ask?», said Elena Arzak to the numerous audience, yesterday in the morning in the Spanish pavilion. No one uttered a word, so here’s our reply, summing up the content of her ponencia (Spanish for “lecture”, "report") dedicated to “The transcendence of gastronomy” and which finely explained the concept of cuisine and restaurant according to her or better still the Arzak’s.
by Carlo Passera
| 20-08-2015 | Tutto Expo
Couscous “alla Norma”
Domenico Della Salandra’s recipe, competing in the Cous Cous Fest 2015 in San Vito Lo Capo
Cous Cous Fest is an International festival dedicated to cultural integration through cultures, flavours and civilizations and celebrates couscous as the dish of peace. The 18th edition of the event will take place from 18th till 27th September in the traditional and beautiful setting of San Vito Lo Capo. Domenico Della Salandra will participate with this elegant and creative dish he presents today for us
I studied this dish for the Cous Cous Fest 2015 contest with the goal of giving couscous a more elegant and refined appearance. My idea was that Couscous, just like other raw materials, could be paired with innovative techniques and processes.
by Domenico Della Salandra
| 20-08-2015 | 12:00 | Signature Dishes
From Chile with love
A love chain between places and people: we visited the pavilion of the South American country
The Chilean Pavilion at Expo 2015 presents the gastronomic uniqueness of this Andean country
The “El Amor de Chile” pavilion is built as if it were a huge picnic basket containing the fruits of the South American country. The leitmotif of the exhibition is inspired by a poem by Raul Zurita and illustrates the gastronomic uniqueness of this nation, based on a chain of attentions connecting earth and men through products and dishes.
by Valeria Senigaglia
| 18-08-2015 | 16:00 | Tutto Expo
The mirror at Contraste
On 1st September Matias Perdomo’s new restaurant in Milan will open. With a focus on the dining room
Left to right: Thomas Piras, Matias Perdomo and Simon Press. Respectively maître, chef and sous-chef at Contraste, on top of being partners in the restaurant management. The ex chef at Pont de Ferr will start his new adventure in a few days’ time. Here he’ll try to offer each client a culinary experience as personalised as possible (photo by Niccolò Vecchia)
«We’re opening on 1st September», says Matias Perdomo, walking us through the doors in Via Meda 2, where Contraste, his new restaurant in Milan, will soon open. His two partners look at him, with a doubtful and complicit smile: «To tell the truth we’re still waiting for a few authorisations, offices are now closed, they’ll open at the end of the month but we hope we’ll get everything on time», they say. «1st September, 1st September», the Uruguayan chef repeats, laughing.
by Niccolò Vecchia
| 17-08-2015 | Dall'Italia
Loide, Tricase and Farmacia Balboa
«If I’m not in love, I don’t cook: vegetables can tell if they’re loved by the person massaging them»
What has always been a chemist’s in Piazza Pisanelli in Tricase, became a lovely cocktail-bar with cold food in 2014, which the three partners named Farmacia Balboa, tel. +39.0833.772585. In the photo by Cosimo Cortese we can see one of them, wine producer Francesco Winspeare. The other two are a director, Taylor Hackford, and restaurateur Mauro Arena. Left Loide Pappadà, the raw-diet chef working at Balboa as of this year
I’m not a cook, I don’t even use fire. I’m a masseuse. Yet ten years ago in London I soon discovered the use of hands in the kitchen. When I returned to my homeland, Salento, close to Leuca, five years ago, fate made sure this summer I’d be behind the bar at Farmacia Balboa in Tricase. More salads. People like them so here I am telling my story.
by Loide Pappadà
| 15-08-2015 | 09:00 | Female chef's life stories
The essence of the sea with the Cera brothers
Lionello and Daniele’s menu at Identità Expo is a delicious triumph of the waves
Red mullet candied in extra virgin olive oil, herb and flower salad, pancetta, capers, black olive, bread and tomato: the splendid, inviting starter in the menu signed by Lionello and Daniele Cera, from Wednesday till Sunday at Identità Expo S.Pellegrino. For reservations (the price is 75 euros per four courses including wines) send an email to: email@example.com. Tel: +39.02.62012701. There are many special offers too, check them out here
«A beautiful, delicious, refined menu fully representing my cuisine». This is what Lionello Cera, from Antica Osteria Cera in Campagna Lupia (Venice), 2 Michelin stars created. Together with his brother Daniele he will be the protagonist at “Italian & International Best Chefs”, from Wednesday 12th till Sunday 16th August, both at lunchtime and in the evening. Their family was already in the business. Lionello was in his mother’s Silvana womb when she, in 1966, together with dad Rino, a fisherman, opened a bar with kitchen, a very simply fish osteria in a small hamlet on the road from Venice to Chioggia.
by Carlo Passera
| 10-08-2015 | Identità Expo