19-02-2014
The hands of Japanese chef Yoshi Takazawa and a nest of spaghetti, a symbol of the crossover in world cuisine, finely illustrated by various lectures during Identità Milano 2014 (photo credits Brambilla-Serrani)
Speaking today about globalization is banal, but you have to think about it when facing the incredible speed at which techniques, methods, cultures and culinary traditions end up in the global blender. Identità Golose offered a view of these dynamics. The case of Japanese chef Yoshi Takazawa was emblematic: he presented his “modern version of Italian cuisine”, that is to say an adaptation of our cuisine following his personal interpretation: clams, caponata, caprese, tiramisù, carbonara, the Japanese-style minestrone…
Even Quique Dacosta from Spain explained the influence of our cuisine on his, in particular with regards to his spaghetti alla puttanesca: a mixture of acid Hollandaise sauce out of a pastry bag, in the shape of spaghetti, “seasoned” with pilpil sauce made with dried tomatoes and smoked oregano.
Valencian Quique Dacosta presented his version of Spaghetti alla puttanesca
Of course, each chef needs to set his own limits and I believe that many of the young chefs in the auditorium are asking themselves, every day, to which extent they can change. Should they venture with unexplored techniques and ingredients, looking for new flavours, perhaps playing with Thai or Mexican cuisine (as with Enrico Crippa’s new tacos o Quique Dacosta’s Japanese gazpacho)? Or should they defend what’s left of tradition?
Danish chef Henrik Yde, specialised in Thai and Chinese cuisine
Cuisine today goes beyond the traditions of each country. And in every country we are inclined to choose the dishes that can be better adapted according to a universal super-language. Gastronomy is more and more inclusive, in a collision of cultures that opens enormous horizons. If, however, I need to have a glimpse of a close and reassuring future that is the one indicated by chef Jeremy Bearman from New York, in his work side by side with nutritionist Kristy Del Coro.
If nothing else, they build their cuisine on totally Mediterranean foundations, in which the choice of each ingredient is based on unquestionable dietician and nutritional motivations. They said they had tried, by chance, Felicetti’s linguine and then assessed their gastronomic and nutritional quality. They have therefore seasoned them with a cauliflower cream emulsified with stock, cauliflower purée, enriched by the flavour (and the calcium!) included in the Grana Padano crust. A perfect advertisement dedicated to our tradition presented in all its substance.
The audience has never been so international
In conclusion, I’d say that the tribute to Fulvio Pierangelini was also very well-timed. If there’s a chef who has best demonstrated that he has confidence and ease in the use of ingredients from other cultures – for instance his knowledge and wise use of spices – indeed that is Fulvio. Before any fashion and with still unmatched results – in my opinion.
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