The endless gourmet spring in Venice continues. Already a few months ago some were speaking of a small revolution and now perhaps we can even refer to a “Fine Dining Renaissance” in town.
A few days ago in Calle Tron in San Stae, Glam opened. It’s Enrico Bartolini’s new restaurant, the fourth after the two Michelin star restaurant which from Devero moved to Mudec in Milan, Casual in Bergamo Città Alta and Trattoria Enrico Bartolini in Castiglione della Pescaia – within Tenuta La Badiola. Glam is a new challenge for this chef who appears never to be satisfied and is now testing himself with one of the most complex cities, given the intense touristic pressure and the artistic and social structure.
The new restaurant is inside Palazzo Venart, ex Palazzo Bacchin delle Palme, a new 5 star luxury hotel, overlooking Canal Grande, a few vaporetto stops from Rialto. The building belongs to Ldc, with headquarters in Taiwan. They paid for the breath-taking renovation, enhancing the wood trabeations and the magnificent Venetian-style floors and completing the picture with oriental boiserie and precious velvet furnishing. There are 18 suites available, so that the Palazzo reminds in an authentic way of the most luxurious residences in the days of the Serenissima.
Steamed cuttlefish with radicchio, apple and oil, lemon and bottarga
The chef was given space to create a refined and contemporary restaurant, without forgetting its location in the lagoon: contemporary entrées such as
Saor in Pumpkin,
Whipped salted codfish and herbs, first courses interpreting Italian traditions such as the famous
Carbonara di Bartolini,
Spaghetti with smoked eel and wild fennel and main courses popular in the lagoon, such as the
Steamed cuttlefish with radicchio, apple and oil, lemon and bottarga.
Enrico Bartolini is new in the lagoon and for his arrival he asked for the advice of
Irina Freguia of the historic
Vecio Fritolin in Calle della Regina, whom the chef considers “the Venetian Aunt”. She immediately made him to discover one of the most beautiful vegetable gardens in the lagoon, the
synergic vegetable garden on Giudecca run by
Michele Savorgnano. In just a few years it has become the place enclosing the widest vegetal biodiversity and now keeps over 300 types of plants, many species of tomatoes and basil, ancient varieties of fruit trees, on top of plums, prunes, apricots and various types of edible flowers.
Bartolini was thrilled and immediately created a dish out of the menu using corbetta courgette, given these vegetables were so good. All the city should focus on a special supply for the gourmet restaurants appearing in the lagoon, creating a personalised service that could become a real resource for Venice: there’s enough space, just think of
Sant’Erasmo’s vegetable gardens. Perhaps what’s missing is the attitude. Let’s hope something changes, even though Venice – what a bad thing to say – is often ungrateful to those who love her relentlessly.
Palazzo Venart opened on 29th August in a 17th Century palace overlooking the Canal Grande. 18 rooms and suites with a significant artistic value
Meanwhile chef
Bartolini joins the stars in the lagoon. He’s full of enthusiasm and fascination for this city. He’s ready to make food with a strong impact on taste, light and emotional, always with the obsessive attention to aesthetics that characterises his dishes. The chef is full of responsibilities but doesn’t hide his secret: the team, from
Donato Ascani, who will be the resident chef at
Palazzo Venart, to careful and discreet sommelier
Adele Furno who had already worked with the chef at
Devero.
Glam di Enrico Bartolini
Palazzo Venart
Calle Tron 1961 San Stae
Venezia
+39.041.5233784
Average prices: starters 30, first courses 30, main courses 35, desserts 15 euros
Tasting menu: 90 euros (6 courses, wines not included)
