12-04-2013

Very reliable butchers

After the horsemeat scandal, English consumers increasingly trust real specialists. Note those names

A Ginger Pig meat counter, one of the largest and

A Ginger Pig meat counter, one of the largest and well known, respected butchers in England, with a number of branches including one in Borough Market. Their meats come from the founder’s free range farms in Yorkshire and include some high quality breeds such as Tamworth pigs

Even the infamous Ikea meatballs were not left unscathed in the horsemeat scandal that begun right here in the UK and spread like an oil slick throughout Europe. Horse DNA found in food of dubious quality: frozen lasagne, dodgy looking hamburgers, Swedish meatballs. Horsemeat itself is surely not malicious, but the idea of finding it in food labelled otherwise (such as ‘beef’) has upset the public opinion and quite a lot too. Even if those who buy frozen lasagne do so at their own risk, the outrage has brought to light a few issues even for those of us who buy very little pre-cooked meals.

Cabrito Goat Meat's goat farm

Cabrito Goat Meat's goat farm

Where does our meat come from? Can we trust the large supermarket chains such as Sainsbury’s and the more up-market Waitrose? As a consequence, the media and the distributors have noticed a decline in the trust consumers have in the large chains and the resulting increased attention to the local butchers, which, despite not being that many, are still to be found even in the large cities. Amongst those, the famous Ginger Pig, one of the largest and well known, respected butchers in England, with a number of branches including one in Borough Market. Their meats come from the founder’s free range farms in Yorkshire and include some high quality breeds such as Tamworth pigs. The animals not directly bred are sourced from like-minded producers in the UK or in France, clearly indicating origin and cut. Butchers such as Ginger Pig have managed to add a touch of glamour to such an old profession and they even organise courses to teach their clients butchery skills.

There are also those who promote the use of lesser known and sadly lesser appreciated, meats. A year ago James Whetlor and Jack Jennings set up Cabrito Goat Meat, and now supply goat and kid goat to a few restaurants too (such as St John in London and River Cottage in neighbouring Dorset). Delicious and from outdoor reared, free range animals, Cabrito’s meat would otherwise be destined for pointless despatch. The goats are in fact mainly used for dairy products and those in surplus are killed without their meat being used in any way. A waste and a huge shame! We tried it and can vouch for the quality and flavour, but also of the animal itself (no horse there!) and the provenance, marked on the carcass.

Mark White, mister Marky Market

Mark White, mister Marky Market

Of course, one could also pay a visit to the Victorian meat market of Smithfield in London, to see first-hand how the goods arrive and are then distributed to the many restaurants, shops and retailers of the city. The only problem is that not everyone is up for an early wakeup call (3am). Mark White, a former advertising manager who lost his job in the recession, had a fantastic idea. He deals with the early rise and goes to Smithfield to buy the meat that those who would rather sleep ask him to get, the day before. The meat can then be picked up at Mark’s office in Soho later in the day, relying on the fact that Marky Martket (‘your man at the market’) has been able to source the best quality pieces at the most convenient price.

For the more lazy meat lovers, there are butchers who sell online too. After trying the fantastic products from Boston Sausages at Borough Market, we can’t avoid placing orders for much more from this friendly family butchers based in Lincolnshire. Further up in Scotland, Donald Russell sell quality meats pretty much only online and by mail order, proud of their Royal Warrant. No excuses then – let's make lasagna from scratch!


Dal Mondo

Reviews, recommendations and trends from the four corners of the planet, signed by all the authors of Identità Golose

by

Federica Carr

A British citizen from Naples, obsessive scuba diver, digital marketing manager Monday to Friday, foodie at any given time

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