A few weeks ago in Wagram, 17th arrondissement, a snob yet that snob neighbourhood, Papillon took wing. It was the most awaited gourmet birth in Paris’s culinary jet set. It’s easy to see why: the patron-chef of this luxury bistro, studied in detail even though it kept a frill-less preciousness and elegance (the design was handed to Pierre Tachon, a habitué collaborator at maison Ducasse) is the very Christophe Saintagne.
Born in 1977 in Normandy, previously working with Alain Ducasse (in order: 59 Point Carré, Lyonnais, director at Plaza Athénée and at Meurice, then New York, London, Japan and Mauritius reaching the outposts of the global empire of the French chef), and Jean-François Piège too (in the Ambassadeurs of hotel Crillons), Saintagne has finally become just himself, Saintagne.
You only need to cross the doors of the restaurant and see him moving between dining room and kitchen (overlooking also the
épicerie run by his lovely French-Italian partner
Laura) to realise you came here
for him: with an infallible
aplomb he moves from being the head chef of a large team to being the director of an équipe of young, bright and nice dining room collaborators.
We are enchanted by the posture, the discreet kindness, by a constant presence (perceived even in the rare moments of absence) but also by that touch of humbleness, an uncommon ingredient among great stars and aces of his standing.
Hay smoked lamb with fregola
The menu is no less charming, with a contained choice (and price, unbeatable given the quality of the dish) but certainly complete, balanced, scientifically calibrated in the selection of products, in the sincere flavours, in the mix of technique, novelty and tradition that have been characterising his cuisine for a few years now: just think of the
Smoked salmon carpaccio or the very delicate one of
Lamb, but also the
Cocotte with eggs and black truffle, and of course the skilful cooking of the
Sea bass inebriated by a citrus fruits emulsion.
We also like the dessert selection, which can be paired, for instance, with a
Sauternes “Château Lafon”, selected from a dessert wine list which is as tempting as that of the red and white wines; but we literally went crazy for the
Madeleines reinterpreted with honey which, just pulled out of the oven, invade the rather big dining room with sweet thoughts as
Christophe (
lui-même!) offers them with coffee, right from the baking tin.
Little over a month since its opening, it’s already difficult to find a place at
Papillon even on a rainy and icy Monday in February. One could have expected it.
Papillon
8, Rue Meissonier
Paris
tel. +33.01.56798188
amis@papillonparis.fr
Average prices: starters 20, main courses 26, dessert 8 euros
Closed on Saturday and Sunday
