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A picture of the outdoor space surrounding Noma, René Redzepi’s super restaurant in Strangade 93 in Copenhagen. The photo was taken on Saturday 27th August, a beautiful sunny day
The fifth edition of MAD, 28th and 29th August in Copenhagen, gave me the chance to return to René Redzepi’s Noma and visit other places such as Christian Puglisi’s Relae and Baest, who was previously working in the shadow of Redzepi, and for six years now has been successfully taking his road offering a completely different cuisine, even Italian, as we’ll see in a future episode of this Danish diary.
Cristina Bowerman, Cesare Battisti and myself had a very strict schedule. Train or underground from the airport to the restaurant? Underground, then three minutes by taxi since we had bags and suitcases. In Noma’s usual location, in Strandgade 93, it’s as if everything has changed. The fault (or merit, for those who are happy) goes to a footbridge opened in the late spring right in front of the restaurant, which caused a lifting of the entire neighbourhood. Now everything is clean and trimmed, but that layer of past and that sense of distance and abandonment that made everything almost unique is missing.
This is one of the reasons why Redzepi, after another pop up restaurant away from Europe, in 2017 will move to the countryside. He wants to find the environmental purity that the new setting has denied. Meanwhile, his restaurant oozes energy from the very first greeting, shouted, as usual, as soon as the guest comes through the entrance. Waiters have long been abolished. Every dish is served by the person who finished it. A French dining room master would be horrified.
For sure, if our cooks and chefs structured their places the way Redzepi did at Noma, I don’t know how long they’d last. Not because at Noma the place is not clean, not at all, but because the solutions would make those who are used to a different discipline jump from their chairs.
born in Milan in March 1955, at Il Giornale for 31 years dividing himself between sports and food, since 2004 he's the creator and curator of Identità Golose. twitter @oloapmarchi
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