21-04-2014
Recession is good for ideas. It challenges professions and opens new perspectives that were unthinkable before. As in the case of Sangue na Guelra (blood in the gills, literally) a small yet ambitious festival born from an idea a couple from Lisbon had, she a communicator, he a photographer. Anna Mùsico and Paulo Barata faced the dark times in Portuguese economy with the idea of re-launching an exceptional local product: fish. And they called some among the most brilliant young sous chefs in Europe to discuss ideas, gestures, recipes. This resulted in a practical/theoretical workshop with the desire to understand how to bring this great product to the attention of inattentive consumers.
This year (the second edition), octopus was the protagonist, representing the excellent Portuguese catch. A team of young local chefs boiled it, grilled it, cooked it at low temperature, caressed it, handled it. This event was also shared with Leonardo Pereira of Noma, Nacho Baucells and Hernan Luchetti of Cellar de Can Roca, Sven Wassmer of Focus and our Alessandro Negrini, the only executive chef in the team.
A simple and tender process instead of complicated techniques: Negrini’s octopus conquered Lisbon’s audience
This was a simple and direct action. Clear to everyone. Especially the thousands of people walking outside the half-empty pavilion of the Simposio, in the sparkling Praça do Comércio, on their Sunday stroll. The point, said Negrini, is that outside here, nobody is interested in our elaborate techniques, but everyone can understand this gesture: cuddling an octopus to make it tender. A gesture can get everyone closer to this product, to an ingredient, to the idea of a well spread cuisine.
VERSATILE. With Negrini, Gianluca Biscalchin, author of this piece and assistant-carrot-peeler
Reviews, recommendations and trends from the four corners of the planet, signed by all the authors of Identità Golose
by