2016 dish by dish

All the news from the greatest Italian chefs. The first episode with signature recipes from the Northwest

14-01-2016
What will be the

What will be the "dish of 2016" of the greatest Italian chefs? Identità Golose asked them directly: the result is a series of articles presenting the best and most recent fine dining creations of the most famous kitchen "signatures". The first episode is dedicated to the Northwest: Piedmont, Aosta Valley and Liguria. Next episode Lombardy 

Photogallery

Enrico Crippa, Piazza Duomo, Alba (Cuneo)

Prawn and radicchio from Treviso cocktail – It’s a take on prawn cocktail with radicchio from Treviso first vacuum cooked and then opened as if it were a water lily. The prawn is seasoned with smoked pancetta cooking water. Then prawn bisque and a drop of shiso vinegar. Hence the classic dish acquires a new dimension, seasoned with choron sauce, which is basically a Béarnaise sauce with tomato
Andrea Ribaldone, I Due Buoi, Alessandria

Fassone beef agnolotti – Subtitle: “Memories of a trip to Japan”. Because I unite a true Piedmontese classic with a typical Japanese technique, soba in ice. Hence: cold agnolotti, in ice, with the intensity of the stuffing enhanced by the low temperature. I connect with the territory: not having agnolotti in the menu, in Piedmont, is blasphemy. However, I present them almost crispy. I took the recipe from my aunt, from Lu Monferrato, and remembered when as a child I would eat her agnolotti as soon as she made them, still raw and callous
Riccardo Aiachini, La Fermata, Alessandria

Chicken alla Marengo... – It’s an ancient recipe dedicated to Napoleon after the battle he won against the Austrians in June of 1800. With a contemporary take, of course
Davide Palluda, All’Enoteca, Canale (Cuneo)

Salted codf with milk and onion caramel – A veil of pungent and sweet caramel, with dried onion amplifying its flavour, on top of the salted cod cooked with milk. A sumptuous and intrigating dish, with white and milky tones, connected with my past and the history of many regions that don’t have any sea but have always been dreaming of it when cooking

What will 2016 bring? No, this is not the classic new-year horoscope. It’s not a question of interpreting the stars, though perhaps we need to interpret the starred chefs (and not only them). In other words: Identità Golose took it upon itself to contact all the chefs in Italy included in our online guide, plus a few more who would deserve to be so and will probably be soon. We asked them: what will your most important dish be this year? The one you’re still studying, or have recently introduced in the menu, or you which you count to be your signature dishfor 2016?

We wanted to write an article, but we received such a flood of feedback that we were induced – in fact forced – to change our plans, and divide the country into geographic areas, including a piece on pizza-chefs which, last but not least, will close the series. We asked all the chefs we esteem to tell us the name of the dish and send us a brief description plus a photo (some are professional, some are amateurish, yet the quality is always clear).

The result, in other words, is a sort of gourmet guide for the year that has just begun. As of today, we will present a series of dozens and dozens of signature dishes, some of which we will further investigate to fully understand all their secrets. Today we start with the Northwest, that is to say Piedmont, the Aosta Valley and Liguria. Lombardy will follow, and so on, up till the Islands, and, as we said, pizza. Enjoy this delicious series!


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Primo piano

The events you cannot miss and all the news of topical interest from the food planet


Photogallery

Enrico Crippa, Piazza Duomo, Alba (Cuneo)

Prawn and radicchio from Treviso cocktail – It’s a take on prawn cocktail with radicchio from Treviso first vacuum cooked and then opened as if it were a water lily. The prawn is seasoned with smoked pancetta cooking water. Then prawn bisque and a drop of shiso vinegar. Hence the classic dish acquires a new dimension, seasoned with choron sauce, which is basically a Béarnaise sauce with tomato
Andrea Ribaldone, I Due Buoi, Alessandria

Fassone beef agnolotti – Subtitle: “Memories of a trip to Japan”. Because I unite a true Piedmontese classic with a typical Japanese technique, soba in ice. Hence: cold agnolotti, in ice, with the intensity of the stuffing enhanced by the low temperature. I connect with the territory: not having agnolotti in the menu, in Piedmont, is blasphemy. However, I present them almost crispy. I took the recipe from my aunt, from Lu Monferrato, and remembered when as a child I would eat her agnolotti as soon as she made them, still raw and callous
Riccardo Aiachini, La Fermata, Alessandria

Chicken alla Marengo... – It’s an ancient recipe dedicated to Napoleon after the battle he won against the Austrians in June of 1800. With a contemporary take, of course
Davide Palluda, All’Enoteca, Canale (Cuneo)

Salted codf with milk and onion caramel – A veil of pungent and sweet caramel, with dried onion amplifying its flavour, on top of the salted cod cooked with milk. A sumptuous and intrigating dish, with white and milky tones, connected with my past and the history of many regions that don’t have any sea but have always been dreaming of it when cooking
Marc Lanteri, Al Castello di Grinzane, Grinzane Cavour (Cuneo)

Marco Martini’s Fassone steak tartare, light whole grain mustard mayonnaise and Parmigiano matured 30 months – This dish is a classic from the Langhe, to which I give a touch of France thanks to the light whole grain mustard mayonnaise
Barbara Scabin, Blupum, Ivrea (Torino)

L'isola galleggiante dei cugini d'Oltralpe rivisto al contrario [The floating island of the cousins from the other side of the Alps, seen upside down] – Quoting Wikipedia: it’s a relatively light and moderately sweet dessert, so much so that if prepared with the necessary attention, it can also be eaten by people suffering from diabetes, cardiac and celiac diseases
Marco Rossi, La Mugnaia, Ivrea (Torino)

Testacoda – These are cheeks cooked very slowly, tail wrapped in cabbage and fillet tataki with horseradish. In other ways, it’s Piedmontese fassone from the Langhe to Japan…
Marta Grassi, Tantris, Novara

Prospettiva nord: baccalà e culatello s’incontrano [Looking North, salted cod and culatello meet] – Two elements, two Northern regions, the former sober and simple, the latter opulent, meet and melt
Antonino Cannavacciuolo, Villa Crespi, Orta San Giulio (Novara)

Prawns, egg and tomato – My personal play with marine textures. This fake mini sunny side up egg is my south with earthly aromas such as tomato and inside a tartare of raw prawns. Red prawn from Sicily is still one of my favourite crustaceans, it’s a part of my life (photo credits Viaggiatore Gourmet)
Christian Milone, Trattoria Zappatori, Pinerolo (Torino)

Egg and eggs – Egg yolk with truffle, caviar, celery broth and parsley buttons... with herbs. There’s a world inside, it pulls down prejudgements and popular beliefs having everyone’s taste agree
Christian Meloni Delrio, Casa Baladin, Piozzo (Cuneo)

A cage made with quinoa, scampi and burrata – A simple yet flavourful dish, perfectly matched with our Wayan beer, a saison with scents of pepper
Davide Scabin, Combal.zero, Rivoli (Torino)

Saltimbocca alla Combal.zero – When you see a slice of prosciutto and some sage on top of a slice of meat you know it’s a "saltimbocca alla romana”. As of today, when you see a slice of prosciutto and some sage on a pasta lasagna (the egg-pasta must be at least 4 mm thick), you’ll know it’s a “saltimbocca alla Scabinsky”. The only variation: 3 different prosciuttos are used, one from Piedmont, one from Parma and one from Tuscany (from the great Fracassi)